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THE 



GREAT EASTEEN'S LOG 



CONTAINING 



HER FIRST TEANSATLMTIC YOYAGE, 



ALL PARTICULARS OF HER AMERICAN YISIT. 



AN EXECUTIVE OEFICER, 

I, / 



^^^ryciCan^^^^ 




''=^'^Wash\nS^°' 



/o LONDON: 
BRADBURY k EVANS, 11, BGUYERIE STREETc 



1860. 



V 



0^ 



LONDON : 
BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS. 



INTEODUCTION. 



Believing the Great Eastern to have enlisted the sympa- 
thies of the British public generally; and I may say of 
the whole civilised world; I think it not out of place, on 
the satisfactory completion of her first voyage across the 
Atlantic, to publish a brief, but plain and unvarnished 
account of her doings ; and the fact of my having had the 
honour of assisting in the navigation of this noble specimen 
of naval architecture to the shores of the New World and 
back to the Old Countr}^, will, I trust, be a sufficient excuse 
for my presumption. Therefore, relying on the ever kind 
indulgence of a British public, I launch my little cock- 
boat on the sea of public opinion, hoping due allowance 
will be made for one who now makes this his first attempt 

to breast its waves. 

W. A. W. 



THE 

GEEAT EASTEEN'S LOG. 



'' "Who would not brave tlie battle, storm, or wreck, 
To move the monarch of her peopled deck ?" — Byron. 

* ' Staunch and strong, a goodly vessel 
That shall laugh at all disaster, 
And with wave and whirlwind wrestle." — Longfelloav. 

FEELiNa satisfied that there is scarcely an individual in Great 
Britain who has not heard of, or had the good fortune to Avitness, 
this stupendous monument of British industry and genius, it is 
needless for me to enter into details of her building and launch- 
ing ; but I will, with the reader's permission, accompany him on 
board, while she is lying snugly at her moorings off Netley Abbey, 
Southampton Water. 

The Great Eastern was designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunei, 
Esq., and built by Scott Eussell, Esq., the eminent ship-builder 
of Millwall, London. 

The gentleman selected to command this noble ship, after the 
melancholy death of the lamented Captain Harrison, was John 
Yine Hall, well known as a skilful commander of first-class 
steamers. The eleven executive officers were also all men of con- 
siderable experience in steam navigation, several of them having 
been in command. It may interest the reader if I give here a brief 
description of their various duties. 

The chief officer has charge of the upper deck, rigging, &c., 
and is also responsible for the general discipline of the ship, 
under the supervision of the commander. This officer keeps no 
watch. The second, third, and fourth officers have charge of the 
watches, assisted by six others, there being always three officers on 
watch at the same time, thus stationed : the senior on the bridge, 
one on the look-out forward, and the junior officer of the watch 
in charge of the steering. There is also a midshipman in each 



6 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

watch ; and while at sea two quarter-masters and six seamen at 
the steering wheels. 

The officer of the lower decks and holds has charge of every- 
thing below the upper deck, working of the cables, fire arrange- 
ments, cleanliness of lower decks, &c. The civil officers consist 
of a surgeon, one assistant-surgeon, and a dispenser ; provedore, 
purser, three ship's clerks, and one provedore's clerk; these 
officers, with the exception of the surgeons, were under the super- 
vision of Mr. Thomas Bold, the commercial manager of the ship. 
There is a chief engineer in each engine-room, who with eighteen 
assistant engineers, are under the immediate superintendence of 
Mr. McLennan, the chief engineer. 

On Saturday the 9th of June, at 2 p.m., the ship slipped from her 
moorings and proceeded down channel on a trial trip, as far as the 
Start Point, being again made fast to her moorings at 2 p.m. on 
the following day. 

The engines worked easily and well; the ship, under easy 
steam, having made an average rate of twelve and a half knots, or 
fourteen and a half statute miles per hour throughout. In conse- 
quence of her satisfactory performance, it M^as decided by the 
directors that the ship should leave for INew York on the 
following Saturday, June 16th. Accordingly, on the afternoon 
of that day, steam was up and everything in readiness for a 
start ; but in consequence of a strong gale blowing, accompanied 
with heavy rain, it was impossible to see our way out; it was 
therefore necessary to delay her sailing till the following morning. 

Among our passengers were the Honourable Captain Carnegie, 
E. N., Messrs. Gooch and Barber, directors, Mrs. Gooch, Mr. 
"Wood, the Times' correspondent, Mr. Murphy the New York 
pilot, two ladies, and thirty-six other gentlemen. 



THE OUTWAED VOYAGE. 

" To the "West, to the West, the land of the Free, 
Where mighty Missouri rolls down to the sea." — Russel. 

On Sunday, June 17th, 1860, at 8.30 a.m. the Great Eastern 
slipped from her moorings and effected a clear start, stopping out- 
side the Needles at 10.40 a.m. to discharge Mr. Bovvyer, the 
pilot. Light westerly winds, attended with rain up to three 
o'clock P.M., when the wind veered to N.W., blowing strong: 
5.15, passed the Start, both engines working very satisfactorily ; 
at 7 P.M., the fire hoses were screwed to the engine pumps, and 
led the whole length of the vessel, both on the upper and main 



THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 7 

decks : this is done every night. Our boats (of which the 
ship carries twenty-fonr) were all clear for lowering, the crews told 
off to their stations, and everything seen in readiness in the event 
of accident ; our good ship in the mean time steaming gaily along 
at an average rate of twelve knots per hour ; the look-out men 
from their different stations cheerfully proclaiming each half hour 
" All's well." It is a beautiful sight to look down from the prow 
of this huge ship at midnight's dreary hour, and watch the won- 
drous facility with which she cleaves her irresistible way through 
the waste of waters ; a fountain, playing about ten feet high before 
her stem, is all the broken water to be seen around her ; for 
owing to the great beauty of her lines, she cuts the waves with the 
ease and quietness of a knife ; her motion being just sufficient to 
let you know that you have no dead weight beneath your feet, 
but a ship that 

" Skims the waters like a thing of life, 
And seems to dare the elements to strife." 

Woe betide the unfortunate vessel that places herself in our 
path, for her destruction would be inevitable, without, in all pro- 
bability, our ship sustaining any injury. As an active means 
of offence the powers of the great ship are hardly to be overrated. 
Armed with half-a-dozen of Armstrong's guns, which carry a 
trifle over five miles, she would singly be a match for any ordinary 
fleet. With superior speed, solidity, and range of fire, under what 
possible combination of circumstances can it be conceived that she 
would be other than victorious in any engagement ? and if the talk 
should be of invasion, what an excellent effect would be pro- 
duced by the sight of the great ship steaming up mid-channel. 
Another great desideratum obtained in the Grreat Eastern is 
the wondrous facility with which she answers her helm. In the 
words of the late Captain Harrison, " She steers like a pilot-boat." 

During the night, several vessels passed, paying us the greatest 
respect by giving us a wide berth. 

June ISth. — Moderate winds and cloudy. Passed one vessel 
this morning bound to the eastward. Noon. Latitude 49° 27' N. 
Long. 7° 57' W. Eun 300 miles from the Needles. 2 p.m. Moderate 
breeze from S.E. with cloudy weather. Set all the trysails, foresail, 
and two fore-topsails, wind freshening with light rain, and gradually 
veering to the northward. At 11 p.m. blowing a fresh gale, with a 
considerable sea running. Ship's motion moderate, and very easy. 
Orders were given to " in square sails," but executing them was 
quite another matter ; for, with over one hundred men on the yards, 
it was 5 A.M. the next morning before the sails were fast: 
they are very difficult to handle on account of their great size, 



8 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

also the weight of the heavy rope attached to them. All this is 
bad enough, but of course the weight of the sails is considerably 
increased when saturated with rain; hence the great difficulty 
experienced in furhng them; but by the time a good gale or two 
has taken out some of the starch and the men work better 
together, we shall, no doubt, manage well enough. 

June \^tli. — "Wind still blowing fresh from the northward, 
weather moderately fine ; five trysails and one staysail set. A 
heavy sea now running; the easy motion of the ship may be 
understood, when I state, that many of the passengers passed the 
whole day on the lower deck playing skittles. Another proof of 
the extraordinary ease with which the ship rolls is the fact, that 
several tumblers stood the whole day and night on a polished 
marble table in the smoking-room, without being thrown down. 
"All's well! " is still the word, engines doing their work easily 
and steadily ; and it is the general opinion that were the bottom of 
the ship denuded of the weeds, barnacles, &c., which cling to it, 
an increase in speed of at least two knots per hour would be 
the result. It must at the same time be understood that the ship 
is by no means doing her best ; for, previous to leaving South- 
ampton, a weight of 5 lbs. was taken ofl" the safety valves of 
both engines ; consequently, at the best of times, we are that 
5 lbs. short of steam. The latitude at noon was 48° 43' jS"., and 
the longitude 16° 14' "W. Course and distance made good, 
S. 83° W. 296 knots, or 345 statute miles, p.m. Wind the same, 
with fine weather, although still very cold ; a moderate swell still 
rolling across the bosom of the broad Atlantic, the great ship 
acknowledging its presence by rolling very easily, and in a most 
dignified manner, or, as the sailors express it, " taking her 
time about it." "We sighted two or three ships during the day ; 
one an American, passed close to us, standing to the N.E., 
showing Ist'pendant, No. 5972. The night was fine, the only 
sound heard to break its monotony being the "All's well!" of 
the look-out men ; and a cheering sound it is on board a ship at 
sea, carrying comfort to many a timid heart. 

The 20ifA dawned on us with a continuance of fine weather, and 
a light northerly wind. At noon our latitude was 47° 50' IN",, and 
longitude 22° 5*4' W. Distance run, S. 77 W. 284 knots, or 330 
statute miles. For two hours during the morning the ship had 
been run on different courses, for the purpose of comparing the 
compasses, thus detracting from the ship's run about sixteen 
miles. Towards the afternoon, the wind, which had been gradually 
shifting, commenced freshening up from the S.S.AY., with a dull, 
cloudy appearance ; five trysails and one staysail were set to catch 
a little of it. A betting mania seemed to have seized the 



THE GREAT EASTER:t^'s LOG. 9 

passengers to-day. Bets were made upon every conceivable thing, 
the number of sails that would be seen, number of knots run, of days 
she would be on her passage ; the wind was not even spared, and 
many were the bets made as to whether we should have more or 
less, come a-head or go astern, &c. ; however, at midnight, the 
wind itself settled the question by blowing the best part of a gale 
from the southward, accompanied by constant rain, — a matter of no 
moment to those below, but exceedingly uncomfortable for those 
on deck. 

Thursday, 21st. — A miserable morning, the wind blowing fresh 
from the S.W., with thick rainy weather. At 10 a.m., the wind 
had veered more to the westward, and we were compelled to take 
in all sail. At noon we found ourselves in latitude 49° 16' N., longi- 
tude 29° 57' W., having run S. 74° W., 305 knots, or 355 statute 
miles, making an average of 12f knots per hour, a slight improve- 
ment, although the want of steam is still badly felt. The ship is 
labouring under every disadvantage, being some six feet by the 
stern, and having a very foul bottom, which, with the deficiency of 
steam, tends materially to decrease her speed. This evening 
passed away very pleasantly, a Great Eastern harmonic meeting 
being held in the saloon, Captain Hall adding to the amusement 
by playing several airs on the flute, accompanied by the cornet-a- 
piston and piano-forte ; there was also some very tolerable 
singing. 

" Lights out" at 11 p.m. put an end to the evening's amusements, 
and was a signal for all hands to bed. The heat in the paddle- 
engine room is very great, the thermometer standing at 110°, 
making it very distressing for the engineers on watch. The wind 
has veered to'the northward, blowing fresh, with squalls, enabling 
us to make sail, but only for an hour or two, as it again decreased 
so that the sails had to be once more furled. 

Friday, 22nd. — Strong winds (very variable and squally, from 
N.AV. to S.W.), with thick weather and heavy rain. Eefore noon 
the wind veered to N.W., a moderate breeze and tolerably fine 
weather, but still cold. The crew are employed scraping upper and 
lower decks, and getting the ship generally as clean as time will 
permit. At noon our latitude was 44° 51' N., longitude 36° 23' AV., 
the run S. 73° W., 284 knots or 331 statute miles. During the 
afternoon — which was fine, with a moderate head-wind — we passed 
a British barque steering as ourselves, also a ship steering S.AV. 
The monotony of the afternoon was diversified by some animated 
foot-races round the deck between American and English com- 
petitors, the " Lion " gaining the victory over the " Eagle." The 
principal place of attraction to the passengers is the paddle-engine 
room skylight, where some of them stand for hours watching the 



10 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

revolutions of the huge machinery ; but the dinner-bugle blow- 
ing, " The Eoast Beef of Old England " has an attraction attached 
to it which soon clears the deck of all interested parties ; the same 
interest attaches to the tea-bugle—" Polly Put the Kettle on." 

Saturday, 2Srd. — Light head-winds with thick weather and a 
drizzling rain — continued so up to noon. The 51bs. pressure was 
restored to the safety-valves of the paddle-engines, but it was 
found impossible to do so with the screw-engines, the valves being 
adjusted from the inside of the boilers ; consequently it could only 
be done by stopping and blowing-off, which would have taken 
some hours, and caused too great a detention. The consumption 
of coal since leaving has averaged 260 tons per day ; this has, of 
course, lightened the ship, and given more slip to both screw and 
paddles, averaging about 12 per cent. At noon we were in latitude 
42° 50' N., longitude 42° 40' W. Distance run 301 knots, 351 
statute miles. 

P.M. A¥eather still the same, and as we are now on the banks of 
Newfoundland, and in the latitude where ice may be expected, the 
thermometer was kept in constant use to test the temperature of 
the water, which altered in two or three hours from 68° to 53°. 
This being a sure sign that ice was in the vicinity, and the 
weather being so thick as to render a look-out useless, Captain 
Hall prudently determined to keep the ship more to the south- 
ward, clear of ice ; and, by so doing, set the growlers at work, 
as by going to the southward we have to contend w^th a strong 
adverse current, thus giving up all chance of making the passage 
in ten days; however, "discretion is the better part of valour." 
The weather continued thick all night, with fresh baffling winds, 
squally, and very cold, with occasional rain. 

Sunday, 24<th. — Presh northerly winds, and cloudy ; four try- 
sails, two topsails, and one staysail set ; mustered the ship's com- 
pany, in blue, at 10.30, a.m. ; tolled the bell for church, and at 11 
commenced divine service in first dining-saloon, which was per- 
formed by a clergyman-passenger. At noon we were in latitude 
41° 2' ISr., longitude 48° 53' W. ; run 300 knots, or 350 statute miles. 
This, being Sunday, was kept in a manner suitable to the day, the 
passengers lounging listlessly about the deck, gazing at the work- 
ing of the machinery, watching the ship's progress through the 
water, or reading. No irrelevant amusement was indulged in, not 
even a bet being made, but one and all seemed to be impressed 
with a wish to " remember the Sabbath day, and keep it holy." 

Exchanged colours with an American schooner ; also a ship 
standing to the eastward. Toward midnight the wind decreased, 
and came right a-head. Purled all sails. 

Monday^ 25tJi. — A dead calm, the sun rising over a sea re- 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 11 

sembling glass ; the heavens without a cloud, and the heat, as 
the sun approached its altitude, such as might be expected in the 
tropics. We are now evidently in the gulf-stream, contest- 
ing with its (to us) adverse current of about two miles per hour. 
Quantities of the yellow gulf-weed, covered with small leaves of 
the same colour, floating on the surface of the water, gives ample 
testimony of our whereabouts. Passed several vessels becalmed ; 
had some considerable trouble with one of our seamen — a big power- 
ful fellow, an advocate for the use of the knife : placed him in irons, 
and secured him below, with the intention of discharging him at 
New York. It is worthy of remark, that there has been a total 
absence among the passengers of that terrible nausea — sea- 
sickness ; for, during the whole passage, we have not heard of 
one case, even among the ladies ; another proof of the steadi- 
ness with which our good ship " rules the waves." Our latitude, 
at noon, was 40° 48' JS"., longitude 56° 10' W., and distance run 
325 knots, or 379 statute miles. At 4 p.m. a light wind sprung 
up from the S.E., enabling us to set a little canvas to woo its 
favours. A slight alarm was caused by some of the coals in 
one of the bunkers becoming heated, and, as was supposed, in 
danger of ignition. Numerous fire-hoses (always ready) were 
immediately brought into requisition, but happily were not needed, 
it being a false alarm. 

Tuesday, 2Qth. — The wind this morning was the same as yester- 
day, but a thick haze covered the water, rendering it difficult to 
see any distance a-head of the ship. At noon our latitude was 
40° 58' N., longitude 63° 31' AV., distance run 335 knots, or 391 
statute miles ; an average of 14 knots per hour. Passed two vessels, 
and at 3 p.m. became suddenly enveloped in a thick fog, so thick 
that no pair of eyes could penetrate further than twenty feet 
from the vessel. The steam-whistles were all set going as per 
Admiralty regulations, and such a yelling and screeching as they 
made surely never was heard ; loud and deep were the curses 
bestowed on them, and many were the fingers thrust into ears to 
keep out a portion of the unearthly row ; but it was no use, 
the fog would continue, steam-whistles would scream, so there 
was nothing for it but to grin and bear it with Christian forti- 
tude. As night approached it became evident to our ever-careful 
commander, that, for the sake of humanity, speed must be 
slackened, for collision with any vessel, at our then rate of speed, 
would have been for her instant destruction ; so, with his usual 
promptitude, he gave orders for " half speed " on both screw and 
paddles. Although fully convinced of its necessity, we were all 
sorry when the order was given, for we had made up our minds 
that a great run would have been the result of this day's work. 



12 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

Towards midnight, at the request of Mr. Murphj, our Nevr York 
pilot, the engines, for the first time, were stopped, and an 
attempt made to find bottom with 120 fathoms of line, but without 
success. After half-an-hour's detention we again proceeded 
leisurely on our course : the fog continuing the whole of the 
night. 

Wednesday, 27M. — The fog had cleared up a little, and at 5 a.m. 
we again stopped and obtained soundings in sixty-five fathoms on 
St. George's Bank, then proceeding at full speed for our desti- 
nation. At 10 A.M. the fog had nearly disappeared, the sun again 
making its appearance; at 11 a.m. ran close by a Ts^ewTork pilot- 
schooner, they saluted us by dipping their colours and firing a 
gun. Notwithstanding all our stoppages, going half-speed, &c., 
we had, up to noon, run the distance of 254 knots or 305 miles, 
our distance from Sandy Hook being 234 knots or 371 miles. The 
ship being some seven feet by the stern, it was deemed advisable, 
before attempting to cross the bar at New York, to bring her, 
if possible, nearer to an even keel ; accordingly about 800 tons of 
water were pumped into the fore compartment, which made a slight 
improvement in her trim. The night was fine, but a thick haze 
settled over the horizon where the land should have been seen, 
preventing us catching a glimpse of the coast lights. 

Thursday, 2Sth. — At 4 a.m. stopped and sounded in twenty-one 
fathoms, proving that we were in the vicinity of the Sandy Hook 
light-ship, so the engines were kept going quite slowly. As far 
as distance is concerned, this virtually finishes the voyage ; and 
taking stoppages into consideration it has been performed in ten- 
and-a-half days ; but we feel satisfied that under more favourable 
circumstances three days may be deducted from this time. At 
6.20 A.M., the Navesink Highlands were barely discernible 
through the haze. At 7.20 passed the Sandy Hook light-vessel 
(receiving a salute of two guns from her), and stopped the 
engines, having to wait till 2.30 p.m., for high water on the bar. 
A lottery which had been got up during the voyage, by fifty mem- 
bers, at 10s. each, for the time the light-ship should be passed, 
was won by two of our officers. During the morning, the following 
address, drawn up and signed by all the passengers, was presented 
to Captain Hall — 

" To Captain John Yine Hall. 

''Great Eastern, June 17, 1S60. 

" Dear Sir, — We, the undersigned passengers, who have the 
honour of being the first to cross the Atlantic in your magnificent 
vessel, cannot now, at the conclusion of our pleasant voyage. 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 13 

separate without expressing our opinion of the great merits of 
this triumph of engineering skill and naval architecture. 

" Our voyage, though fine, has yet (as is generally the case in 
Atlantic passages) been sufficiently checkered with rough weather 
to demonstrate that, in point of seaworthiness, the Great Eastern 
has no equal in the world. We are aware that the incredulity 
and prejudice which oppose all great undertakings when first 
attempted have been manifested to an almost unusual extent 
against this noble vessel. On no point has this feeling been more 
strongly shown than with regard to her manageability at sea. 

"Her conduct during the brief storm of the 18th and 19th inst,, 
should put all such fears (if any still exist after this voyage) at 
rest for ever. 

" Her movements, even when the gale was strongest, were slow 
and easy, and at all times so much less than those of the best sea- 
going steamers as to be quite removed from any standard of com- 
parison. Those who know by experience what an Atlantic passage 
really is, will appreciate the high praise bestowed when we express 
our belief that the Great Eastern, in accommodation, safety, and 
freedom from disturbing motion, is as much superior to ordinary 
vessels as she surpasses them in magnitude and power. 

" The supposed necessity of working her engines at a low rate 
of speed for some days has prevented her effecting that rapid 
passage which we are convinced she can easily accomplish. Yet, 
from what we have seen, we express our firm belief that the Great 
Eastern, in proper trim, is capable of making greater speed than 
has yet been attained at sea. Such a result will be due not more to 
her unequalled form than to the efficiency and power of her engines. 
That the latter will always be found equal to their duty is witnessed 
by the fact that during the whole of our run from Southampton 
to New York they have worked with the utmost ease and steadi- 
ness, never requiring even a moment's stoppage for attention or 
adjustment of anything. We fully appreciate the anxious vigilance 
which has been exercised by yourself and your officers in all relating 
to the safety of the ship and the general comfort of the passengers. 

" In taking leave of you we most heartily wish every success to 
yourself and the noble vessel which you have the distinguished 
honour to command, and remain, &c." 

Then follow the signatures of all the passengers. 

The answer of Captain Hall was as follows : — 

" To THE ChAIEMATT OF MeETIKG OF PASSEXaERS. 

** Great Eastern, oflf Sandy Hook, June 28, 1S60. 
" Dear Sir, — I am very highly gratified with the comprehensive 
and expressive address which you have just presented to me from 



14 THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 

tlie passengers. I value it the more as it so simply, yet justly, 
points out the peculiar excellencies of the Great Eastern, being 
at the same time free from undue panegyric, and stating only 
facts, and opinions based upon those facts. The expression of 
satisfaction at the endeavour of my officers and self to promote 
the comfort and safety of the ship is, and will continue to be, 
highly appreciated by us. In return, we beg to thank you, on 
behalf of the passengers, for the unvarying courtesy we have 
received from them, and only regret that our acquaintance should 
be so short. "With the best wishes for the happiness and pros- 
perity of every one among the present passengers — the select few 
who were the first to have practical faith in the great ship, 
" I remain, dear Sir, with much esteem, yours faithfully, 

" JoHiT Vine Hall." 

Por the first hour or so after stopping our engines, we lay pretty 
quiet, surrounded by vessels becalmed in what appeared a sea of 
oil, so smooth and motionless was it, whilst the piercing rays of 
the sun pouring down upon our heads, rendered absolutely 
necessary the order, " Hands, spread awnings ;" but this monotony 
was soon broken, first by the arrival of the steam tug " Yankee," 
chartered by our New York agents, Messrs. Grinuell and Minturn, 
having on board the secretary to the Big-ship Company, Mr. 
Yates, and about 150 representatives of the press, and friends. 
This party were (with but few exceptions) the only persons 
admitted on board during the day. After the arrival of the 
"Yankee," steamers of all size and build, crammed with passen- 
gers from their upper story (for the American river steamers have 
all a one or two-story house above the deck) to their guard-rails, 
swarmed around us, the crowds on board filling the air with their 
cheers, — three being given for everything in any way connected 
with the Great Eastern, — waving their hats and handkerchiefs with 
might and main ; the firing of guns, playing of bands, blowing of 
steam whistles, and the indescribable row made by so large an 
assembly of live Yankees, being quite deafening and bewildering. 
A light breeze now springing up, yachts and vessels of every size 
and rig were added to the strength of our escort ; but as a de- 
scription of our reception will come better from an American pen, 
we will leave our friend, Mr. Osbon, of the "New York "World," 
to report our arrival and reception. 

"At twenty minutes past seven o'clock the Great Eastern 
arrived off the light-ship. She was received by Captain Cosgrove, 
with a salute and the dipping of colours. 

" Immediately the news of her arrival was telegraphed to the 
consignees of the ship, Messrs. Grinnell, Minturn & Co. The 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 15 

sails were refurled, the yards squared, and the ship put in order 
to come up to the city when the tide should serve, which would 
be between two and three o'clock in the afternoon. The anchors 
were cockbilled, and the cables put in readiness to anchor, if 
necessary ; but owing to the smoothness of the sea, it was not 
deemed advisable to anchor, and as the ship was under such com- 
plete control of the engines and helm. She was boarded by Mr. 
John Hall, news collector of the associated press, and Mr. John 
Van Dusen, Mr. Murphy's partner, of the pilot boat Washington, 
No. 4. 

" The vessels which were inward bound, as they saw the huge 
hull, were at no loss to know it was the Great Eastern, and they 
hoisted their flags, and sailed close to her, and scrutinised her 
through their spy glasses, and in some instances sailed around her 
to have a good survey of the great sea monster ; the crews were 
scattered up aloft, out on the yards, and were intently engaged in 
gazing upon her ; the pilot boats skimmed around her, and all the 
vessels dipped their colours ; numbers of yachts which were 
anchored in shore, got under weigh and spread their canvas to 
the light breeze and stood out to greet her. The scene was one 
of the liveliest interest ; as far as the eye could reach up the bay, 
vessels were getting under way to come down. From the time of 
her arrival ofi" the light-ship until she started for the bar nothing 
occurred of interest, except that the consignees and the represen- 
tatives of the press came down in the steamer Yankee and boarded 
the ship. Several other boats came down, but no one was allowed 
on board, until the Health OflScer should board her. 

" As soon as it was light enough to see anything, the people of 
Staten Island began to pour out of their houses, the earliest risers 
taking care to secure positions commanding the most extensive 
view. In their eagerness to catch the first glimpse of the ap- 
proaching steamer, as well as to retain their places, breakfast was 
forgotten, personal discomforts were overlooked, and nought was 
thought of but the Great Eastern. The hours crept on apace till 
the watches told eight o'clock, and their patience was still unre- 
warded. Quarter-past eight came, but with no encouragement to 
the gazing multitudes. Eive minutes more, and a voice cried out, 
" I see her !" and immediately it passed from man to man that the 
looked-for steamer was in sight. Instinctively the noise was 
hushed, each one held his breath, stretched to his utmost height, 
and strained his eyes to get a sight of the mighty stranger. jBut 
it was only the possessors of spy -glasses who were the fortunate 
ones. A few minutes more and the Great Eastern came within the 
range of vision of the most short-sighted. Then it was the pent-up 
enthusiasm burst forth, and one long shout told of the joy which 



16 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

was felt at the success of the great enterprise. Kecovering 
from this, the boatmen hastened to their crafts, and in less 
time than it takes us to describe their efforts, countless little 
sail-boats were on their way out to sea. Quicklj the news 
spread along the island, and soon the eastern side was lined with 
spectators. 

" Meanwhile the people in the city were by no means idle. The 
telegram to Messrs. Grinnell, Minturn & Co., served as a signal 
for all the 'packet steamboats' to fire up and start down the 
bay. Passengers were only too glad to embark, despite the charge 
of one dollar a head that was levied by the proprietors of these 
boats. As fast as one boat was filled another came up, and before 
noon the Thomas Hunt, Owen Petitt, W. Gr. Putnam, Delaware, 
and many others, were shooting down the bay in search of the 
Great Eastern. The yachts, too, that were lying quietly at 
anchor, soon displayed signs of life ; the sails were run up, 
the flags hoisted, and they joined the fleet of steamboats that 
were hastening seaward. As time and tide wait for no man, 
the spectators had to wait for the tide, for the huge steamer 
refused to gratify the waiting multitudes until it was high 
water. 

" At a quarter of eleven o'clock yesterday morning, a small 
steamer, with the appropriate cognomen, ' Yankee,' was hastily 
procured and hired by the consignees of the big ship, Messrs. 
Grinnell and Minturn, and still more hastily boarded by the 
representatives of the press, who had previously mustered in 
goodly numbers at Messrs. Grinnell and Minturn' s office, and as 
soon as the Yankee came alongside of the wharf at the foot of 
Maiden I^ane, they jumped aboard like so many literary pirates, 
as it were, determined to slaughter their mammoth prize by piece- 
meal, and do her up in detail. All the enterprise and ingenuity 
of reportorial talent were present, from sentiment down to bur- 
lesque ; matter of fact and statistics ; political, law, and "Wall- 
street lore ; satire and argument ; everything in the way of news- 
paper talent that appears in black and white, and in close columns 
was freighted on the Yankee. The shipping moored to the 
wharves in the vicinity of the steam-tug, and the movine^ craft of 
steam and sail, of all descriptions, seemed to be perfectly uncon- 
scious of the nearness of their expected, august visitor. Not a 
flag was waving, excepting the scanty pieces of bunting long worn 
there by the winds of many a clime, nor a gun booming as the 
sombre little vessel steamed quietly through the bay and out 
beyond the Narrows on her course to the ' John Bull ' of naval 
architecture. The fort on Governor's Island and Port Hamilton 
with its opposite neighbour, were bathing in the sunlight, and 



THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 17 

seemed to be in an undisturbed stony sleep ; tbe picturesque 
shores of Staten Island dotted with cottages and covered with the 
greenest of foliage, the long, strongly marked white beach line of 
Long Island, w^ere rapidly passed as the little Yankee slyly glided 
into the open sea to meet the great vessel. 

"The whole trip w^as pleasant and unmarked by anything 
unusual ; members of the press always have a press in their heads, 
a press on their thoughts, and a press on their words and actions ; 
in fact, they are compressed, and, as usual, on this occasion they 
all looked as little ruffled, as quiet and subdued as the placid bay 
on which they were sailing. 

" iVs the little steamer was flitting like a butterfly around a 
buffalo, the band on board the Eastern struck up the national air, 
' Hail Columbia.' After taking one tour of inspection, she 
neared the big hull, and, having been lashed to a tug which had 
been previously moored to the Eastern, the consignees and repre- 
sentatives of the press stepped aboard. But here a difficulty 
occurred : the adjoining tug was not sufficiently near the side of 
the big ship to allow the passengers to step from her deck to the 
gangway ladders, the bottom step of which was higher than the 
deck of the Yankee. A plank, however, with some difficulty, was 
soon adjusted, and the gentlemen stepped, one by one, from the 
tuo^ on to the gangway ladders, and all reached the lofty deck 
without a drenching in the waves, or injury to any one. 

''When stepping upon the deck for tbe first time, one is slightly 
disappointed, after witnessing the graceful curves and the beautiful 
proportions of her exterior, to see the apparently worn and old 
look of the decks and companion ways. This is undoubtedly 
owing to the hasty departure of the Great Eastern, and to the 
previous doubt and suspension as to her final destiaation. The 
consignees were immediately greeted by Captain John Vine Hall, 
and several members of the press by the other officers ; the crowd, 
however, soon dispersed, and was soon no longer a crowd. 

" Immediately after the formality of greeting was over, the con- 
signees and the other guests descended to the second cabin on a 
tour of inspection. There, in an adjoining room, the passengers 
were found at dinner. They seemed to be startled by tbe appear- 
ance of so many visitors. A brass band at the same time was 
discoursing some lively strains. 

" In the meanwhile the remainder of the visitors had scattered 
themselves in all directions over tbe wide expanse of deck, some 
were at the bow lookiug down at her stern, others in the raised 
grating of tbe quarterdeck, examining the wheels that guide the 
rudder and trying to catch a glimpse of the fans of tbe screw, 
sixty feet below; others were peering into the wheel-boxes, where 

c 



18 THE GKEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

tbe immense red frame work was lit up, when tbey were in 
motion, by a beautiful rainbow ; certainly an odd, tbough not 
unusual sight — a rainbow within the wheel of a steamship. And 
others were gazing down into the abyss of the paddle engine 
machinery, where the stupendous oscillating engines were in 
motion. Indeed, this sight was truly grand. The precision of 
the motion of such an immense mass, at such a depth ; the groan- 
ing of the steam, as it were, in the bowels of the monster, and the 
ease of motion of each stupendous piston, were calculated to 
inspire emotions of awe and wonder. 

" The lively scene on the deck was rendered more pleasing by the 
bright buttoned uniforms of the courteous officers, who paced to 
and fro, cheerfully explaining everything, and readily imparting 
all kinds of nautical information. 

" It is strange, however it should have happened, that such a 
scene was not graced by those who are always present, where 
manhood is triumphant, and intellect and skill are victorious over 
matter. We noticed but one lady on board, the wife of one of 
the directors. 

" Before the giant of steam marine had made a revolution of her 
paddles for the start to the city, a number of little craft had 
reached her, crowded down to the water's edge, and white with 
handkerchiefs, waved by eager spectators, who sent up cheer after 
cheer most heartily, for the great triumph of naval architecture. 
The 0. M. Petit, the Thomas Hunt, and a little black, walnut- 
shaped steamer, sailed in this jubilant manner, round and round, 
like timid Lilliputians, reconnoitering an awe-inspiring Brob- 
dingnag. 

" At fifteen minutes past two o'clock the signal was given and the 
engines were put in motion. Slowly the immense paddle-wheels 
revolved, and the vast ship was quickly under way. Those who 
had not seen her in motion, were astonished at the ease, quietness 
and perfect grace of her movements. From the steamboats and 
vessels surrounding her, were sent up deafening cheers of cordial 
approval, while the ladies, who made up one-half of the visiting 
steamboat loads, waved their handkerchiefs in ecstacies of delight. 
The enthusiasm was great — the scene was exciting. 

" On board the immense steamer every man knew his place, and 
with the certainty and regularity of clockwork, all her movements 
were guided. There was perfect harmony of action, perfect control. 
Her broad wakes — for she had to make quite a circuit in getting 
started — looked from the stern of the steamer as a vast river 
winding through a boundless prairie looks to the aeronaut. Com- 
pared with it, the wakes of the smaller vessels following in her 
track sank into narrow nothingness. 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 19 

" A few minutes' time brought the huge steamer near the bar. 
Now came the trying time. The great problem was to be solved, 
whether she could cross the bar. Every one watched with eager- 
ness her approach. On the result depended whether the steamer 
could enter the harbour of New York. She was drawing 26 feet 
6 inches of water, and the tide favoured her with 29 feet. The 
wind is light ; everything is propitious. The bar is reached. The 
huge form of the steamer goes over. There is no sensation 
of grounding. Without touching ground the bar is crossed. 
The G-reat Eastern is in the harbour of New York. It is a 
proud victory. Anxiety is at an end. A salute of twenty guns 
heralds the victory. Shrill whistles from the accompanying fleet 
of steamers, ringing of bells and cheers of thousands of spectators, 
who have been waiting and watching with nervous anxiety the 
result, attest appreciation of the steamer's triumph. 

" Promise of a dinner on board the mammoth steam-ship was 
made on the little steam-tug Yankee. The ride down the bay and 
the sea air had sharpened the appetite. In the excitement of 
wandering about the huge vessel, marching up and down her 
immense decks, looking into the complex wilderness of rooms 
below, and observing the vast engines and towering display of 
masts, the keen hunger of which nearly everybody had been 
complaining, was forgotten. At half-past two o'clock, howeYer, 
when an invitation to dinner was extended to the new coiners on 
board, a general and hearty response to the same was manifested 
by a rush to the dining-room. The tables were set in the second 
dining saloon. A sumptuous repast covered them — the leading 
staple articles being solid English roast beef and Southdown 
mutton. Champagne goblets and ice formed the accompaniments, 
with a bounteous supply of bottled English ale. All ate and 
drank with a relish. 

" Now that the trying rubicon has been passed, the remainder of 
the trip to the city is straightforward. But there is excitement 
and intense enthusiasm all the way, such as never before attended 
the arrival of any vessel in New York. The day was one of the 
most delightful imaginable. A delicious breeze came from the 
south-west, and the sky was cloudless, affording a splendid view 
of the bay, and Staten Island, and Long Island shores. Erom 
the deck of the Great Eastern, the view of the outstretching 
harbour of New York was unparalleled in extent and beauty. 
Strangers on board the vessel, who for the first time were entering 
the harbour of New York, were overwhelmed with wonder at the 
splendid scene revealing itself to their astonished gaze. Old 
residents of the city looked on with equal wonderment. 

" As the Great Eastern neared New York, the fleet of vessels, 

c 2 



20 THE GREAT EASTEEN's LOG. 

crowded with people anxious to see the monster leviathan of the 
commercial world, increased in numbers. There was a propor- 
tionate increase of enthusiasm, and wild fluttering of flags, and 
gratulatorv salutes and ringing of bells. Yachts and sailing 
vessels crowded in among the nautical visitants. As each came 
within hailing distance, the sailors swung their hats, and the 
ladies described jubilant circles in the air with their handker- 
chiefs. To the salutes, appropriate and hearty responses were 
made from the steamer. 

" From Fort Hamilton a national salute was fired, which was 
responded to by the booming of cannon from the decks of the 
Great Eastern. 

" The report on the bulletin board of the newspapers, that the 
tide would be high enough at half-past one o'clock to float the 
Great Eastern over the bar, induced many thousands of people to 
assemble on the battery at that time to witness the giant steam- 
ship as she passed up the bay. It was not understood, however, 
that the great vessel was anchored oflf the Lightship some forty 
miles from the city, and that the actual passage of the dangerous 
bar could only take place between three and four o'clock. Very 
many, after remaining in the broiling sun over two hours, and 
straining their eyes until they ached, left for home, and voted the 
monster vessel a humbug. However, at five o'clock, about which 
time she hove in sight, there was a vast crowd on the Battery, and 
all the neighbouring wharves were densely thronged. Telescopes, 
opera and magnifyins glasses, of all kinds, were brought into 
requisition, most of which, it was evident, were more ornamental 
than useful, and obscured rather than helped the sight. A fine 
view of the Great Eastern was obtained from the balcony of 
Castle Garden, to which a favoured few were admitted. 

" The first sign of the Great Eastern which greeted the anxious 
watchers on the Battery was a dense cloud of smoke, which made 
its appearance over Long Island ; and shortly alter, her tall masts 
loomed up over the point which juts into the lower bay. Presently 
the huge hulk hove in sight, and soon darkened all of the horizon 
that can be seen between the Staten and Long Island coasts. The 
guns flashed out a thunderous welcome, flags were hoisted and 
dipped, and myriads of sail and row boats dashed out into the bay 
to surround, survey, and cheer the great vessel. 

" After passing the Narrows, the Great Eastern ' hugged ' the 
Staten Island shore ; and at this time, owing to the distance, and 
the darkened background, she did not look as large as people were 
led to expect, and there was some disappointment in consequence. 
It was nut until she approached the Battery that her vast pro- 
portions became manifest ; but the best test of her enormous 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 21 

bulk was the dwarfing of every large vessel she neared or passed. 
The steam-ship Niagara, which was lying in the stream, bedecked 
with flags and steamers, shrunk apparently to the dimensions of a 
little ferry boat, and a good-sized revenue cutter seemed scarcely 
above her water-line, and one would suppose could hardly survive 
a ripple from her bow. As the great vessel passed the Battery, 
salutes were fired by the Asia from her dock at Jersey City, by 
the Niagara and the revenue cutter, and all the vessels dipped 
their flags as she passed. The beauty of the day, the myriads of 
boats on the river, the shipping in the offing gaily adorned with 
flags and streamers, and, towering above them all, the great 
nautical Avonder of the age, was a scene not often witnessed nor 
soon forgotten. 

" Long before the time at which she was announced by the 
papers as likely to arrive, the Great Eastern was the principal 
subject of conversation along the North Eiver. Everybody com- 
municated what little he knew about her to everybody else ; and 
the large amount of information of which some inveterate talkers 
were possessed was very marvellous, considering that none of it 
was correct. The chairs were brought out from all the drinking- 
houses to the side-walk, and were occupied by the waiting multi- 
tude. Some there were of patient individuals, who sat for two or 
three hours on the docks, in the hot sun, agonising and perspiring, 
waiting and longing for her approach, determined to see her, if she 
came at all. AV'e presume they had a fine time of it. Perhaps, 
however, they were right in thinking that to see the vessel pur- 
suing her course up the harbour, was a hundred times better than 
to see her lying quietly and motionless at the dock. It may be 
very interesting to look upon the skeleton of a mastodon, but the 
grand sight would be to behold the great animal moving in his 
native forests. 

" By three o'clock the ends of all the piers along the way were 
covered with people. The top of a pile of timbers was sure to be 
occupied by a crowd. The docks near Hammond Street were 
covered by large numbers of people. An occasional sailor in the 
masts of a ship stood ready to give the signal of the approach of 
the vessel. A cry, in joke, of ' Here she comes ! ' would make 
the ropes alive with boys. The men speculated on the time she 
would arrive, and the little boys pointed out the masts of vessels 
almost out of sight, very positive that all belonged to the Great 
Eastern. One little fellow thought that if he could go up in a 
balloon he could tell just where she was. The firing of cannon 
was the signal for increased vigilance on the part of lookers-out, 
and in a short time after this the vessel came in sight. When 
she came near enough to be fully observed, the admiration, 



22 THE GREAT EASTESN's LOG. 

astonisliment, and eutliusiasm were unbounded. The men cheered 

involuntarily, the boys uttered prolonged enunciations of tbe 
syllable ' oh ! ' and every person commenced to point out to his 
neighbour some peculiar or wonderful thing which he observed 
about her. The masts of the ships were now covered with human 
beings, numerous as fruit on an apple-tree. Old gentlemen, 
seized with unwonted vitality, essayed to climb the rope-ladders, 
and sailors shouted to ' land-lubbers,' in derision, to look out and 
not fall. The roofs of houses that were near enough to afford a 
view of the river were covered with ladies and children, as well as 
men. As the vessel approached Hammond Street the crowd 
increased, until there seemed to be no end to it. The universal 
emotion was admiration and astonishment. Some, indeed, from 
benighted neighbourhoods, who had been told by erudite friends 
that she was about seven miles long, and that a livery stable was 
in successful operation on board of her, on account of the pleasure 
the passengers derived from taking morning rides of fourteen 
miles or so, from stem to stern and back again, and who had 
implicitly believed all the comic papers had said about her, were 
perhaps somewhat disappointed at finding her only a quarter of a 
mile in length, but were constrained to admit that she was a 
' great baste.' 

" At Hammond Street she was a long time manoeuvring in the 
river, seeming to be attempting to turn about, but without suc- 
cess. She ran very near to the Jersey City shore, and lay there for 
a considerable time ; then she bore down directly towards the pier 
at the foot of Hammond Street, and every one supposed that she 
was coming in. Changing her course, however, she started up 
the stream, and went so far as to be out of sight from that 
locality. 

" As the vessel steamed up the river, the spectacle presented was 
not a whit inferior to that along the harbour. The gaily decorated 
boats that shot hither and thither across the stream, the flags 
flying from every mast-head, and, not the least, the huzzaing 
multitudes on either shore, made a coup d'ceil that has never been 
surpassed since the arrival of the Great Britain fifteen years ago. 
The ship steamed steadily on, only to meet with new sights at 
every turn of the wheels, to be greeted with additional cannon 
salutes and shouts of welcome from the throngs crowding the 
encompassing steamers and vessels, and the shores. 

" Nothing of importance occurred last night at the moorings of 
the Grreat Eastern. During the earlier part of the evening a large 
crowd, of which nearly one-half was composed of ladies, was con- 
tinually on the dock, and the streets leading to the place were 
thronged with persons going to or returning from the place of 



THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 23 

attraction. After ten o'clock but few persons remained, except 
uncivilised boys and men used to sitting up late at night. During 
all the evening the scene was quiet and picturesque. The great 
vessel stood by the dock like a mighty cloud, and those on the 
pier gazed up in wonder, and almost in awe, at the magnificent 
work of human hands before them. The moon shone bright and 
clear upon the river, and the calm waters glistened and sparkled 
ill its light. 

" There was no other illumination of the scene than this. Dark- 
ness was spread over the great city like a black mantle, and the 
flickering of lamps here and there only served to make the 
darkness more palpable. The bulwarks seemed as high as the 
rouf of a four-story house. Standing at one end, the other was 
dim and indistinctly defined in the distance. Occasionally, a boat 
paddled between the ship and the wharf, only noticed by the 
noise of the oars and the white garments of the rowers. Some of 
the crew of the Great Eastern leaned over the side above, and 
quietly gazed out upon the river and the city, or, when the crowd 
below grew noisy, answered questions which were asked them. 
The crowd below stood either on the docks or on the piles of 
boards, from ten to fifteen feet high, close beside the ship. Late 
in the evening the governing classes came out strong, and had 
much to say to the crew. 

" One young gentleman gave utterance to the information that 
the crowd thought of giving the ship a white-washing that night ; 
and another was anxious to know how the weather was up there. 
AV^ith the exception of these harmless passages between those 
who had no eye to beauty or sublimity, the quiet and want of 
excitement was remarkable. During the latter part of the 
evening, several of the seamen of the Oreat Eastern, with great 
agility, slid down a rope at the side of the vessel to the dock. 
The police, discovering this, loosened the rope, and ordered the 
sailors on board to haul it up. ' Oh, no,' they replied, ' I can't ; 
I haven't got the heart.' The rope was then fastened by the 
sailors, so that it was as available as a means of escape from the 
ship as before. The police, baffled at this, muttered that they 
would lock up the next man that came down, and considered it 
useless to attempt anything more. And thus the monarch of the 
waters lay last night in the cahn moonlight, waiting for the 
excitement of this morning. The interior of the vessel will 
probably be exhibited soon, if not to-day, at a stated price of 
admission." 



24 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 

Friday, June 29fJi. — Our crew, assisted by a number of sbore- 
hands, are employed cleaning ship and preparing generally for the 
reception of visitors. The officers of the ship to-day received a 
letter from the proprietors of the Astor-house hotel, offering to us 
all the hospitalities of their house : v^-e were all much impressed 
with, and in suitable terms acknowledged, the kindness of their 
offer, but preferred maintaining our independence. The scene 
this day alongside the ship presented a most animated appearance, 
thousands of people gazing at the " big ship " from " early morn" 
to " dewy eve." Itinerant vendors of stores of all kinds ; " iced 
lemonade" made from lemons " grown on board the big ship," 
one cent per glass. " Great Eastern drinks," " cakes," " sweet- 
meats," and everything to which they could apply the name of 
the ship, commanded a ready sale. The spare ground on the wharf 
is letting in lots at fabulous prices for the erection of " lager bier" 
saloons and refreshment booths of all kinds ; there is also in course 
of construction a tent for the Great French Giant, M. Joseph 
Adams, Menagerie of Bears, Shooting Galleries, &c. &c. ; in short, 
the heterogeneous collection of a country fair is being fast gathered 
together. The Japanese (who leave in a day or two) are quite 
forgotten, or, rather eclipsed, by the arrival of the big ship — one 
set of " Great Easterns " driven out by the arrival of another 
" Great Eastern" — our American cousins seeming determined to 
apply to us the motto " Palmam qui meruit ferat." This evening 
two of our stokers unfortunately met their death while in a state 
of intoxication ; one falling from the wheel sustained concussion of 
the brain and died the next day ; the other fell overboard and was 
drowned, his body not being recovered. The ship has hitherto 
been a temperance one, no spirits being allowed, but now the crew 
have facilities for obtaining the much-coveted drink, they seem 
determined to make up for their long abstinence. Drunkenness 
is doubtless the curse of British seamen, and a frightful per-centage 
of death and disease is the result of this dreadful infatuation. 
The next day a coroner's inquest was held on board on the body 
of the man who was killed, a verdict of " accidental death" being 
returned : he is to be buried to-morrow. At the request of the 
proprietors of the New York Illustrated News, the whole of the 
officers sat for their photographs at the establishment of Mr. 
Gurney, Broadway, for insertion in the next week's paper. Two 
large and commodious gangw^ays for "entrance" and "exit," a 
ticket office, &c., have been constructed, and turnstiles fixed in 
the interior of the ship. The general arrangement for admitting 
the public will be completed on Monday, and the ship throw^u 
open on Tuesday at a charge of one dollar per head, half price to 
juveniles. We are blessed with beautiful weather, although it ig 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 25 

rather too warm to be comfortable. To render the position of the 
ship a safe one in the event of a blow, seven anchors are buried 
on diifereiit parts of the wharf, and attached to these are large 
chains secured on board. Small steamers are constantly hovering 
round the ship crowded with people, who are induced to take an 
outside view bj the flaming announcement that the fare is only 
10 cents (= to 5d.). Nearly every steamer passing, that is pos- 
sessed with anything in the shape of a band, compliments us by 
striking up with all the vigour of sound lungs, " God save the 
Queen," finishing up with three cheers for the Cfreat Eastern. 

The following is the advertisement of the directors fixing the 
day for opening, and the price of admission : — 

" JN'otice is hereby given, that the G-reat Eastern will be pre- 
pared for the reception of visitors on Tuesday 3rd July, between 
the hours of nine in the morning and six in the evening. The 
price of admission is fixed at one dollar each for adults, and fifty 
cents for children under twelve years of age. By order of the 
directors. J. H. Yates, Secretary." 

Sundaij, July 1st, was fine but very warm, the dust from the 
shore blowing over the ship in clouds, adding much to our dis- 
comfort. At 10 A.M. the clergyman who was to officiate at the 
interment of the fireman who was killed on Friday last, attended, 
and the crew being assembled on the quarter deck, he spoke a few 
earnest words to them on the evils attending drunkenness, as 
exemplified in the untimely end of their two shipmates, exhorting 
them in the most solemn terms to reform their ways ; the coffin 
was then lowered over the side enveloped in the shroud of a British 
sailor — the flag he loves so well in life, that covers him at death — 
the Union Jack. The ship's bells were tolled, and about 120 men 
from the engineers' department, headed by their chief, and accom- 
panied by some ten or twelve other engineers, formed a procession 
following the hearse which carried the body to the grave ; it was 
a mournful sight, and one that should have been a lesson to them. ; 
but no, the same night in a drunken row one man had his head 
split open by his messmate with a bar of iron, his death being at 
first feared. The dastardly coward, who committed the assault, 
w^as sent to gaol, and was sentenced to undergo a lengthened 
period of imprisonment, so that we were well quit of him. I 
should think on a moderate computation, no less than 50,000 
persons have embraced the opportunity presented by an idle day 
to have a look at the Great Eastern from, the wharf; and what 
with tents, stalls, &c., the display of flags, the cries of the 
intinerant vendors of all sorts, and the immense motley multi- 
tude swarming on the wharf attired in all the colours of the rain- 
bow, I was forcibly reminded of Greenwich fair as it used to 



26 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

be. The weather on the succeeding day, Monday, was all that 
heart could .desire. Painters were making a vain attempt to 
beautify the exterior of the ship, but no sooner was the paint laid 
on than it was covered with a shower of dust, making all colours 
alike. Our preparations for opening the ship are now nearly 
completed, and she certainly looks in first-rate order. 

Keceived a visit from Mr. Jacobs (the Wizard), and his brother 
(the Goblin Sprightly). We paid a visit to the theatre in which 
they were performing in the evening, and were much amused by 
their excellent entertainment. Among Mr. Jacob's friends was 
one " old English Gentleman," whom we had invited to view the 
Great Eastern by moonlight ; never shall I forget his ecstasy when 
he stood upon her spacious quarter deck ; but after ascending to 
the top of the paddle-box, " hold my hat and stick," said he, to 
one of us, and down he plumped on his knees, his white hair 
glistening in the moonlight, and with hands clasped, he exclaimed, 
" This is the proudest moment of my long life ! God, I thank Thee 
I'm an Englishman ! " 

Tuesday, July Srd. — At 8 a.m. the Great Eastern was first 
opened for adtnission to an American public, but contrary to our 
expectations there was anything but a rush, 1700 being the small 
number of visitors registered for the day by the turnstiles ; thus 
showing pretty clearly that the rate of admission is too high. The 
general opinion of the visitors seems to be, that she's " a mighty 
big ship," and must have cost a " tarnation sight of dollars." The 
following day, being the anniversary of American Independence, 
was kept as a holiday throughout the entire country by all classes ; 
*' everybody " seemed bound to go "somewhere;" excursion 
steamers were running in all directions witli "fishing parties," 
" picnic parties," and " parties " of all kinds ; the theatres and all 
places of amusement held out inducements in the shape of extra 
bills of fare, headed with the announcement that it was the 
*' Glorious Fourth." The greatest license appeared to be allowed 
to all parties. Do as you like, appeared to be the order of the 
day. Pistols were popping and big guns banging the whole day 
long, twenty-one of the latter being fired by us as a compliment to 
the Yankees ; and in the evening the public thoroughfares were 
almost impassable, for squibs, crackers, and other fireworks were 
thrown about in a most reckless manner, many fires being the 
consequence. A public display of fireworks was gratuitously pro- 
vided at several places ; among others, at the City Hall ; and 
being informed these would be the best, we, escorted by Mr. 
E/awliugs, of the " J^^ew York Illustrated News," wended our way, 
though not without some difiiculty, through the streets to the 
office of the " New York Times," from the upper windows of 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 27 

which establishment we had a good view of the display, which, in 
comparison wifcli the same sort of thing we are in the habit of 
seeing in Old England, was, we think, rather insignificant. 
After the finale (which was a large scroll in coloured lights, bear- 
ing the words " American Independence," witb AYashington and 
the Goddess of Liberty, in life-like figures, steamers with their 
w^heels turning, and sailing ships representing Commerce, finishing 
with a grand discharge of rockets, romau candles, &c.) we took a 
look into Morence's Theatre, and saw a ridiculous burlesque on 
the Japanese. After which, and a " claret punch " at Taylor's, 
(the most magnificent restaurant in New York), we returned to 
the ship just as the fun in the shape of fighting, &c., was com- 
mencing, but not having a taste for that style of amusement, 
we betook ourselves to bed. The weather next day was squally, 
with a considerable fall of rain ; the visitors both yesterday and 
to-day not averaging over 1700, or 3400 for the two days. During 
the night we found the water-thieves very troublesome, and we 
have been compelled to use pistols on them once or twice, sinking 
some of their boats to teach them manners. On the evening of 
Eriday the 6th, all the ofiicers, with the exception of three, like- 
wise the senior engineers, attended a grand banquet given in 
our honour, by the proprietor of the " iS'ew York Illustrated 
News," at " Lafarge House," one of the principal hotels in New 
York. 

To the excellency of the entertainment, and the very kind and 
flattering reception given to our worthy commander and his 
officers, we would wish to bear testimony ; the gentlemen connected 
with the paper being unremitting in their kind attention. 
AVe all spent a moat happy evening, and shall ever think of it 
with pleasure. 

Saturday, July lltli. — Eine weather, but very warm. This is 
the last day on which a dollar will be charged for admission. On 
Monday next, the ship will be open for inspection at half that 
amount. During the five days of the charge of a dollar, the 
number of visitors registered was only 8578 ; but the reduction 
of the price of admission will doubtless treble that number during 
the ensuing week. The directors, assisted by an experienced 
public caterer, Mr. Jarrett, are arranging excursion trains and 
steamers from diflerent parts of the States, and every facility will 
be aflbrded to intending visitors. The next day being Sunday, 
the ship was closed to the public ; but that the excitement caused 
by the arrival has in no ways abated, the following extract from 
one of the local papers published the following morning will 
prove. 



28 THE GEE AT EASTERN'S LOG. 

" The Geeat Eastern. 

''The principnl feature of attraction in the metropolis yesterday- 
was the Great Eastern ; and never in the history of Gotham has 
theviciuitj of Hammond, Bank, and Bethune Streets been the 
focus of a greater throng than was all day gathered to gratify the 
public curiosity. The influx commenced at an early hour in the 
morning, and from that time until night let down her curtain, 
increased by thousands. Central Park was comparatively deserted, 
the Sixth, Fourth, and Third avenue cars hardly doing a week-day's 
business, while the Eighth and Ninth Avenue cars, which run in 
the vicinity of the great show, were crowded to suffocation. Every 
street running towards the North river in the locality of the ship 
was black with people — men, women, and children — wending their 
way towards the dock. Erom the east side especially the delega- 
tion was immense, while those living in AYilliamsburg, Brooklyn, 
Jersey City, Hoboken, and other suburbs, had facilities provided 
for their accommodation in the shape of steamers and ferry-boats, 
which ran at frequent intervals during the day, conveying pas- 
sengers around the ship at a price varying from ten to twenty-five 
cents. There were some eight or ten of these, and as many of 
them were crowded to the water's edge on some of their trips, it 
is fair to suppose that a handsome profit was derived. Probably 
no less than a hundred thousand pairs of eyes gazed upon the 
huge stranger in the course of the day. Yet, notwithstanding 
the throng, the dust, the heat, and other things calculated to try 
one's temper, the best of decorum prevailed, and the services of 
the large force of police were comparatively unnecessary. Lemonade 
and lager bier received liberal patronage, and some of the 
venders reaped handsome profits from the hungry and thirsty. A 
few instances of intoxication required attention, as they always do 
in a miscellaneous gathering ; but nothing that came to our ears 
indicated that the general peace and good order had been dis- 
turbed. On shipboard everything appeared quiet. An occasional 
head protruded above the bulwarks and looked down upon the 
crowd, but no connection between the ship and shore took place 
except when some lucky fellow received leave of absence, when 
he moved as rapidly through the crowd as a joyful pair of legs 
could carry him. It is estimated that not less than titty-thousand 
people visit;. d the dock on foot alone, to say nothing of the great 
number ^^ho looked upon her majestic form from the decks of 
sundry steamers. Everybody appeared delighted, and expectation, 
judging trom the various remarks, did not appear to be greatly 
disappointed." 

This morning one of our quarter-masters named Durrell, 



THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 29 

was found dead in his bed, his death being the result of constant 
intemperance. A wife and several children are in this case left 
nearly destitute. A coroner's inquest was held on the body, and 
the usual verdict returned. He was buried on the following 
morning, another victim offered up at the shrine of intemperance. 
On Monday morning a party of us, consisting of eight officers, 
having obtained the necessary leave of absence, and passes, which 
were kindly presented to us by the different railway and steam- 
boat companies, started at 7 a.m., with beautiful weather, in the 
fastest steamer in America, the " Daniel Drew," for Albany. 
The Daniel Drew left New York at 7 a.m., and after eleven 
stoppages on the way, arrived at Albany at 4-30 p.m., having 
performed the distance of 150 miles at the rate of nearly nine- 
teen miles an hour. 

After arriving at Albany, we took the omnibus and drove up to 
the finest hotel, " Delavan House," a magnificent building, sump- 
tuously furnished ; the entry of our names in the visitors' book 
was sufficient to ensure us every attention from the spirited 
proprietor, Mr. Loyselle, junior. After a little brightening of the 
outward man, we proceeded to replenish the inward with the 
good things of this life, and after satisfying the cravings of nature 
we sallied forth to satisfy those of curiosity. We visited the 
Capitol, or (Senate House, a large, substantial, white stone 
building, with nothing particular to mark its exterior. The 
Assembly Eoom is a fine spacious apartment, tastefully furnished ; 
a full length portrait of Washington overhung the seat of the 
chief magistrate. Tlie Senate Chamber is somewhat similar, hung 
with portraits of American celebrities, with, to English eyes, 
the strange addition of a handsome porcelain spittoon to each desk. 
The Library, a large square room, contains 80,000 handsomely 
bound books, with a picture gallery ; around which is an elaborately- 
worked iron railing. Albany, the capital of the Empire State, was 
founded by the Dutch in 1614, and received its present name in 
honour of James, Duke of York and Albany, afterwards James 
the Second, at the period when it fell into the possession of the 
British, 16G4. The population is about 6500. The principal 
public buildings are the " Capitol," the "State Hall," the " City 
Hall," the " Hospital," " Penitentiaries," and between forty and 
fifty churches. The houses are well built, but the streets very 
irregular and ill paved. Before leaving we partook of a glass of 
champagne with the proprietor, who kindly insisted on con- 
sidering us his guests, and as such would not allow us to pay a 
farthing. We gladly take this opportunity of returning our 
thanks to all for their kindness both on board the l3aniel 
Drew and at Delavan House. 



30 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

Left for Niagara at 11 p.m., by the New York Central Eail- 
waj, engaging a berth each in the sleeping car. These cars are 
arranged with two tiers of side berths similar to a cabin in a small 
ship, being attached to all night trains in America. Each sleeping 
car is furnished with the necessaries for performing the morning's 
ablutions, although I cannot speak in high terms of the articles 
generally in use for arranging the hair, both comb and brush 
being securely chained to the side with so short a scope as to 
require the greatest ingenuity even on the part of a wide-awake 
Yankee, to put them to their legitimate use. About 7 a.m., 
stopped at the city of Eochester to breakfast, which was ready 
awaiting us in a large comfortable room ; plenty of good things 
to satisfy good appetites, with both civility and attention as a 
relish, the charge made being only two shillings. Eochester is 
a large and important city, with a population of 45,000. The 
Genessee Falls lie close to the town ; it w^as from Table Eock 
in the centre of them that the celebrated Sam Patch made his 
last and fatal leap in 1829. Having twice previously jumped into 
the rapids near the Falls of Niagara, and once from the Table 
Eock, the latter a height of 125 feet ; he never rose after his last 
leap, his body never being found. During our trip by rail to 
Niagara, we passed through many towns, but of course it is 
useless from a mere passing glance to attempt a description of 
them ; the country 1 should like to describe, but find myself 
unable to do so in the manner it deserves. AVoods, fields of 
waving, ripening grain, rocks, rivers, mountains, and plains, are all 
blended in one grand picture, by that great painter, Nature. At 
11.15 A.M. (after a ride of about twelve hours from Albany), we 
arrived at the Falls, taking up our quarters at the International 
Hotel. Had a delightful bath, which somewhat restored us, after our 
fatiguing journey, and then started in a carriage for the Falls, 
crossing the small suspension bridge on to Goat Island (on the 
American side) ; each person for this privilege being required to pay 
a fee of one shilling, and to enter his or her name in a book kept 
for that purpose : after having once paid your fee, you are free to 
cross for the rest of the season. This island is private property, 
and the source of a considerable income to its proprietor. The 
rapids, as seen from this bridge, are a grand and impressive sight ; 
the rocks, which are in some places visible above the surface, seem 
tormented with some supernatural agony, and fling off" the wild 
and hurried waters as if with the force of a giant's arm. After a 
ride of some few minutes, and crossing a small foot-bridge, we find 
ourselves on Luna Island, and standing on the very edge of the 
American Falls : the Horse-Shoe FaD. being visible at the same 
moment. 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 31 

To attempt to describe what we felt whilst gazing on this cease- 
less, rolling, roaring world of waters, jumping madly down a height 
of 163 feet, stunning the looker on with its thunder, and blinding 
him with its spray, were useless ; no pen could give an idea of the 
delight and reverence with which we gazed in speechless wonder 
at this sublime sight ; it must be seen and felt to be appreciated. 

" Flow on for ever in thy glorious robe 
Of Terror and of Beauty : yea, flow on, 
Unfathom'd and resistless. God has set 
His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud 
Mantled around thy feet : and He doth give 
Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him 
Eternally, bidding the lip of man 
Keep silence, and upon Thy altar pour 
Incense of awe-struck praise 

* ' Thou dost speak 
Alone of God, who pour'd thee as a drop 
From his right hand, bidding the soul that 
Looks upon Thy fearful majesty be still — 
Be humbly wrapp'd in its own nothingness, 
And lose itself in him." — Sigourney. 

*' And what are we, 
That hear the question of that voice sublime ? 
Oh ! what are all the notes that ever rung 
From man's vain trumpet, by Thy thund'ring side ? 
Yea, what is all the riot that man makes 
In his short life, to Thy unceasing roar ? 
And yet, bold babbler, what art thou to Him 
Who drowned a world, and heaped the waters far 
Above its loftiest mountains ? — a light wave, 
That breaks and whispers of its Maker's might." — Brainerd. 

The spot on which we were standing was, on the 21st June, 
1849, the scene of the following melancholy accident : — 

The family of Mr. Deforest, of Buffalo, visited the Falls in 
company with a young man named Charles Addington. They 
were about to leave the island, when Mr. Addington playfully 
seized Annette, the little daughter of Mr. Deforest, in his arms, 
and held her over the edge of the bank, exclaiming, " I am going 
to throw you in." A sudden impulse of fear caused the child to 
bound from his grasp and fall into the rushing stream. With a 
loud cry of horror the young man sprang in to save her, and, ere 
the stricken parents could utter a cry, they both went over the 
Falls ! 

The Falls consist of three, the " American," " Central," and 
" Horse-Shoe," the last, and by far the grandest, being situated 



32 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

on tlie Canadian side, from whence the best view of them all is 
obtained. The first-mentioned fall is 163 feet in height, 660 feet 
wide ; Central same height, 240 feet wide ; and the Horse Shoe 
163 feet in height, and 2000 feet in width. The waters running 
down from the great lakes (for which the Niagara forms the 
outlet) cover an area of 150,000 square miles ; floods so grand and 
inexhaustible as to be utterly unconscious of the " ninet}^ millions 
of tons" which they pour every hour, without ceasing, over these 
stupendous precipices. The term "Isiagara" is of Iroquois ex- 
traction, and signifies the " thunder of the waters." Terrapin 
Tower occupies a singular and awful position ; as the guide-book 
says of it, it appears to have " rushed in, as fools do, where angels 
fear to tread." About fifty feet from Goat Island are some small 
rocks, a few feet above the surface, with the water dashing madly 
over them. On one of these the " Tower " is built ; it is of stone, 
very small, and about forty-five feet high, connected with Goat 
Island by a small bridge consisting of two or three planks laid 
from rock to rock, and this being constantly wet and slippery 
requires great care in crossing : from its summit the most sublime 
view conceivable presents itself, but it requires well- strung nerves 
to contemplate it calmly ; the waters rushing onwards to their final 
leap, thundering and roaring as if they would carry both rocks 
and tower into the dread abyss (which stands within twelve feet of 
the extreme edge), making the stoutest heart quicken its beat, and 
the fiercest eye quail as it glances into the awful depths below. 
The Horse Shoe Eall is, as I have said before, by far the grandest 
of the three ; it is computed by Professor Lyell that fifteen 
hundred millions of cubic feet of water pass over its edges 
every hour. A condemned vessel, the Detroit, was, in 1829, 
sent over this fall, and, though drawing eighteen feet, she did 
not touch the rocks in passing the brink of the precipice, show- 
ing there must be a depth of at least twenty feet of water above 
the ledge. 

" Termination Eock " is a sort of cave formed behind the Horse- 
Shoe Fall, and reached by the descent of a built stairway. Before 
descending, visitors equip themselves in a complete suit of water- 
proof garments, and, being thus prepared, we descended the steps 
and followed our guide along a narrow^ and exceedingly slippery 
platform of rock close to the precipice, and with sundry m.isgivings 
in our minds as to the safety of the attempt ; however, having 
heard that this feat has been performed by ladies, we deter- 
mined to proceed, which we did with a quickened pulse, and 
breathing with great difilculty on account of the dense spray, 
which nearly blinded us. Quite deafened by the roar of the falling 
cataract, we pushed on, having been informed by the guide, before 



THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 33 

•starting, that upon arriving at tlie "worst" we must get on as 
last as we could, it being easier to get beyond the sheet of waters 
than to turn back ; when we got inside, after a very fair idea of 
the sensation of drowning, what a sight presented itself! The 
outward bend of the falling water, and the inward curve of the 
precipice, form an immense cave ; the sun, shining full upon the 
cataract, giving it the appearance of an immense mass of trans- 
parent moving crystal, the flying spray forming rainbows of 
many colours and in all directions completely bewildering the 
astonished beholder; but as now our position was anything but a 
comfortable one, and sundry misgivings as to our safe return pre- 
senting themselves before our excited imaginations, we retraced 
our steps as quickly as we could, feeling immense satisfaction at 
finding ourselves once more on "terra firma." Decidedly this 
undertaking is more pleasant to remember than achieve. We 
spent this day in gazing in increasing rapture at the wonders 
before us, and reluctantly left for our hotel, as night was dropping 
her dark mantle over the scene. 

After supper and a good night's sleep, we rose next morning 
determined to witness the falls from the river. To gratify 
visitors in this particular, a small steamer is kept running up 
to the foot of the Horse-Shoe Falls every hour, or oftener if 
required. She is appropriately named the " Maid of the Mist," 
and is of 120 tons burden, and 100 horse power; she starts 
about two miles below the falls, two shillings being the fare, 
including the use of waterproof garments. After leaving the 
landing stage, we steamed toward the falls, the greatest care and 
skill being required in steering, in consequence of the eddies and 
ever changing currents ; the little vessel steamed so closely b}-- the 
" American " and" Central " Falls as to deluge us with the spray, 
and then steered boldly, as it were, into the very jaws of the 
foaming cataract, at the foot of the Horse-Shoe Fall ; where, stunned 
by the thunder of the falling water, deluged and blinded with its 
sprays, we almost fancied ourselves doomed to destruction ; but 
no ; just in time the helm of the little vessel is shifted, and, 
aided by her powerful machinery, she darts, as it were, from the 
very jaws of death, leaving us to doff our oil-skins and wipe the 
water from our eyes, by which time we are at the Canada ferry • 
and in a few moments we find ourselves wending our way up the 
cliffs, hardly having had time to collect our scattered senses with 
a deep and lasting impression of the great fall engraved upon 
our hearts. On ascending to the road, we find ourselves close to 
Clifton-house, a magnificent English hotel, near which the sangui- 
nary battle of " Lundy's Lane " was fought. The view of the 
falls from this hotel is exceedingly fine, and being near the grand' 

D 



34 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

fall possesses for visitors many advantages over others, as well as 
the satisfaction of seeing the " Banner of Britain " proudly 
waving over your head. A pleasant walk of about half-an-hour 
brings us to the suspension bridge, a really noble structure, the 
work of Mr. John De Boebling, of New Jersey. It was com- 
menced in 1852 ; it is of enormous strength, being calculated to 
carry over 12,000 tons ; is all wire-rope, and, as a work of art, for 
strength, beauty of construction and simplicity, it stands unri- 
valled. Its height above the rapids is 250 feet, span (single) 800 
feet, width twenty-four feet ; the road for carriages and pedestrians 
is suspended twenty-eight feet below the railway line. The four 
large wire cables forming its principal support are ten inches in 
diameter, and contain 4000 miles of wire. The total weight of the 
bridge is 800 tons, its cost 100,000Z. sterling; each foot-passenger, 
for crossing, with the privilege of returing the same day, pays one 
shilling; for a carriage six shillings. About a couple of hundred 
feet from the bridge, is the rope of the daring, but fool-hardy, 
Blondin: we saw the plucky little fellow cross, and perform all 
sorts of antics, over the boiling rapids. When he appeared, ready 
to perform his wonderful feat, the wind was blowing nearly a gale, 
and although entreated by many of those present to desist until 
the fury of the wind had somewhat abated, the dauntless man 
started forth upon the rope, heedless of the advice given him, and 
in a moment this was his only support as he moved midway 
between the yawning gulf beneath and the clouded heavens 
which spread above ; and as he passed forward, his hair flying in 
the wind, with diflaculty maintaining his position, a thrill of terror 
passed through the frames of all present : with the greatest 
trouble he proceeded along, the wind in its tempestuous fury 
almost sweeping him from his slight foothold. Already two or 
three guys had snapped through the force of the gale, but the 
undaunted Blondin continued his journey. He now reaches the 
centre, and calmly and complacently lies upon his back, and then, 
gaining a sitting position, balances the pole across the rope, and 
stands upon his head. He turns a somersault, and then resumes 
his walk for the Canada side. Here, not satisfied with the danger 
he had already undergone, he has his eyes blindfolded, and, get- 
ting into a sack, starts on his return. His agent on the American 
side trembled with fear, as he slowly and deliberately continued his 
hazardous journey. He is more than half-way over when sud- 
denly his foot slips, he staggers, and then, without the slightest 
trouble, he once more sits upon the rope. The slip, as it appeared 
to us, was only a ruse. Once more he starts for the American 
side, and is soon received by a tremendous burst of applause. 
But I derived no pleasure from witnessing such a performance ; for 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 35 

tliougli I cannot but admire the extraordinary nerve and courage 
possessed by this wonderful man, it seems to be a desecration of 
a spot seemingly set apart for grave reflection ; it is no place for 
a mountebank performance. We visited M. Blondin at his own 
residence, in the village of the falls, and were introduced to bis 
wife: a good tempered, lively little body, with a pleasing face. 
Elondin him.self is a small spare man, standing about five feet, 
with a cast in one eye, notwithstanding which his face is a pleas- 
ing one ; they have two or three children. Mrs. Blondin presented 
us with likenesses of her husband, and he himself with pieces of 
the rope on which he walks, with a written guarantee to that 
effect ; the rope is two inches in diameter, made of white hemp, 
called by sailors Manilla rope. 

A few words about the International Hotel, and then I must 
reluctantly bid adieu to Niagara. This hotel is a most stupendous 
as well as an elegant structure, containing every comfort, a capitally 
served table loaded with the most reclierclie dishes ; but the most 
remarkable thing in the establishment is the excellent manner in 
which the waiters are drilled ; no confusion, but marching in and 
out with dishes in double files like soldiers, to the music of a band 
stationed in an orchestra in the upper end of the magnificent 
dining saloon. One peculiar feature is the manner in which the 
plates, &c., are placed upon the tables ; four waiters at each place 
themselves in a row, one having plates, another knives, the third 
forks, and the fourth spoons ; at the ringing of the conductor's 
bell, the band strikes up the march in " Norma ; " the waiters march 
round the tables keeping time to the music, their arms all going 
together, the four at the same moment depositing on the tables the 
articles they carry : it is really astonishing how quietly and orderly 
everything proceeds owing to this excellent system. After an 
early dinner and the settlement of our bills (charge lOs. Qd. per 
day board), we started in a carriage, crossing the Suspension 
Bridge for the last time, and stopping at the depot of the Chippewa 
and Ontario Railway, having free passes in our pockets for a ride 
to the city of Niagara, fourteen miles distant, standing on the edge 
of Lake Ontario. This line of rail runs through a beautiful and 
well cultivated country. After a ride of about forty-five minutes, we 
arrived at Niagara, the terminus of the line ; and during the thirty 
minutes which we stopped, we visited the steamer Northerner, about 
starting for Toronto, and were much pleased with her excellent 
accommodation for passengers. Lake Ontario from its shores pre- 
sents very much the appearance of an inland sea, being of great 
extent, and is ofttimes rufiled by severe storms. We returned by 
train as far as the village of Chippewa, there taking the steamer 
Clifton for Buffalo- On board this steamer was a return party of 
drunken Irish excursionists, who had been celebrating Orange-day 



36 THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

at Chippewa : we had but little peace during our stay on board, 
for they were fighting the whole time. This trip by steamer has 
but little to interest ; Chippewa, from which we started, is as far 
in the direction of the falls as steamers dare venture. Buffalo 
stands at the mouth of the Niagara, and, on the shores of Lake 
Erie, its distance from Chippewa is twenty-two miles. It was 
7.30 P.M. when we arrived there, and we immediately went on 
board the lake steamer City of Buffalo : she is a beautiful 
model, her lines nearly similar to the Great Eastern, painted 
entirely white outside. Tonnage 2200 tons, and 340 feet long. 
On entering the gangway, the first thing that struck me as a 
novelty, on board ship, was a handsome marble fountain, playing, 
with gold fish swimming in the basin. The saloons, cabins, &c., 
were gorgeously elegant, surpassing anything of the kind I had 
ever seen before ; the arrangements for passengers, &c., were perfect, 
and the vessel as clean as a new pin. At 8 p.m. we started for 
Cleveland on Lake Erie, distant 190 miles, arriving there at 7 
A.M. the next morning, having travelled all night at the rate of 
eighteen miles per hour. Before leaving the city of Bufl:alo we 
partook of a hearty breakfast ; then landing, rode ofl^" to the Angier 
House Hotel, and started thence to view the country. We were 
much pleased with the pretty villas and their nicely arranged 
gardens, &c, ; we visited the celebrated "water cure " establishment, 
of which it is said in Cleveland that more whiskey is consumed 
there than in any hotel. The trees and shrubs, as we drove along, 
presented a very beautiful appearance, so fresh and green. This is 
the second city in importance in the state of Ohio, and boasts of a 
population of over 60,000 ; it is laid out with broad, well-paved 
footways, but the roads are very bad, the centres being principally 
formed of planks, in many places in a sadly dilapidated condition, 
very dangerous for horses. After enjoying a very pleasant day, and 
being treated with the greatest kindness by Mr. Taylor, the pro- 
prietor of the hotel, we started at 8 p.m. on our return by the same 
steamer, arriving at Buffalo at 7 a.m. next morning. The com- 
mander of the steamer, Captain Perkins, behaved towards us with 
the greatest kindness and courtesy, and would insist on treating 
us as his guests. 

Upon landing took up our quarters at the Mansion House Hotel, 
and after breakfast went for a stroll through the town, and were 
much pleased with the size and construction of the buildings 
generally and the cleanliness of the streets ; the principal one, 
Main Street, though not so long, I think quite equal in appearance 
to the Broadway of New York, and more deserving the name. 
The guide-books say of Buffalo (in 1858) " This important com- 
mercial and manufacturing city has grown so great and so fast that 
although it was laid out as late as 1801, and in 1813 had only 200 



THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 87 

Louses, its population now numbers 80,000 (so that it may now be 
calculated having at least 100,000 inhabitants !) it is an earnest of 
the wonderful progress we shall see bj-and-bj in the Western 
Cities." After a comfortable night's rest, we turned out at 8 a.m., 
had breakfast and another short stroll through the town, leaving 
by the 10.25 a.m. train on the New York and Erie Eailway for 
Elmira. 

Of the towns through which we passed it is useless, as I said 
before, from so cursory a glance to attempt a description ; but as 
to the country, no pen can do justice to its beauty. For very many 
miles the track (to avoid cutting through the mountains) ran by 
the side of the rivers iSusquehanna and Delaware, crossing and 
re-crossing tliem several times ; the scenery on their banks is 
most beautiful. 

At 5.30 P.M., after a lovely ride, we arrived at the sweetly pictur- 
esque town of Elmira, — a charming valley nest, with environino- 
liill-ridges. JBode up to Haight's hotel, arranged our toilets, 
enjoyed a hearty meal, and then sallied forth in the cool of the 
evening for a ramble. After leaving the town (which is small and 
of no importance) we found ourselves surrounded by charming 
little villas, with here and there a good sized mansion, a small 
stream running by the road, putting us much in mind of the 
lovely scenery about Hampton Court, the sort of place a happy 
couple might fancy an earthly paradise. 

' ' A cottage in this fairy scene, 
Whose sheltering boughs seem ever green ; 
The streamlet as it flows along 
Seems murmuring forth a fairy song." 

This town is celebrated for its Eemale College, a very large and 
beautiful building, the lady pupils, studying for surgeons, lawyers, 
&c. What would our own "dear ones" of England think of 
an establishment of this kind ? I think the " Maids of merry 
England " may be excused the endeavour to emulate their 
American cousins in this particular. I saw some pretty faces that 
would never do for surgeons, for I feel satisfied they would, if 
called in, do more harm than good to the patient ; perhaps cure 
him of the tooth-ache, and leave him with a heart-ache that 
no skill could cure : still I should have no objection to being 
attended by a lady practitioner, for we all know 8ir AYalter Scott 
spoke the truth when he said of woman, 

*' When pain or anguish wrings the brow, 
A ministering aagel thou." 

After enjoying a lovely moonlight walk we returned to our hotel 
thoroughly tired, and then to bed. 



38 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

At 4 A.M. the next morning took our seats in the Cincinnati 
express train for Jersey City (opposite New York). Passed 
through some very wild mouutaiu scenery, stopping at a town 
called Deposit for twenty minutes to breakfast, and after a ride of 
ten and-a-halt' hours through a well cultivated country, arrived at 
Jersey City at 2.20 p.m. Before leaving the traiji let me say a few 
words concerning the regulations on the different lines; the roads 
are well kept, time the same, and civility from the conductors the 
order of the day. There is but one class of carriages, or "cars" as 
they are called here, and they are open for communication from 
one end to the other, so that the conductor walks the whole 
length of the train, and gathers the tickets before arrival at a 
station, thus saving detention. He is also able to walk from 
the engine to the baggage van, giving him the opportunity 
of seeing all is going right in the different parts of the train, 
and consequently, this must add to its safety. Our own rail- 
way officials might adopt a somewhat similar arrangement with 
benefit to themselves and the public. After leaving the train 
we crossed in the ferry-boat to I\ew York ; drove down to the 
Great Eastern, and at 3 p.m. once more found ourselves " at 
home." 

From Monday 7th July to this date, Monday 16th, 26,821 persons 
have visited the Great Eastern. A large fire occurred to day near 
the ship, causing the destruction of thirty-seven houses ; three or 
four days back, a fire of even greater extent occurred, totally de- 
stroying a great number of small buildings, known as the Wash- 
ington Market ; one took place on the opposite side of the bay, 
the same night. Eires appear to be of very constant occurrence in 
this city, though I am informed the arrangements for their sup- 
pression are excellent ; the greatest difficulty to overcome being 
the pugnacious disposition of the firemen belonging to the 
different engines. A week back, a sanguinary fight took place 
between them in this city, whilst proceeding to a fire, five men 
being shot, and several others wounded ; this is rivalry with a 
vengeance. 

The Chicago Zouaves (a small volunteer force) visit the ship by 
invitation to-morrow ; they are thus spoken of by the " "World." 

" The nucleus of a Zouave regiment has been formed at Chicago, 
and it is now in New York attracting much attention. On Satur- 
day, the Chicago Zouaves were reviewed by the Mayor, and went 
through their drill in the open space in front of the City Hall. 
Among the thousands who saw their evolutions, were many w^ell 
qualified to express an opinion upon them ; and the judgment of 
these critics, we believe, was highly commendatory. The nature 



THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 39 

of the evolutions, however, was such that any intelligent observer 
could see their ohject, and judge of their effect; and upon the 
mass of the spectators the impression was one of vivid pleasure. The 
endurance, the celerity, and the spirited movement of the Chica- 
goans, was no less commendable than their precision, inteUigence, 
and skill in combination. They united, in a very high degree, 
mobility, flexibility, and power of concentration. They are a fine 
body of young men, about forty in number ; and they appear to 
have a full supply of that nervous energy which enables the 
American to bear more, and work longer, as well as more intelli- 
gently, than men of other nations who have larger muscles. Their 
system will be closely studied during their visit ; and ere long we 
may expect to see a New York Zouave regiment in full charge 
across the parade ground of Central Park." 

Tuesday, July 17th. — Fine weather, but exceedingly -warm. 
About 11 A.M. the Chicago Zouaves visited the ship, and thousands 
flocked to see them, it having been given out that they would go 
through their extraordinary drill on the quarter-deck ; they how- 
ever came without arms, much to the mortification of the assembled 
thousands. 

The visit of a deputation from Philadelphia yesterday, for 
the purpose of endeavouring to persuade the directors to take 
the ship tliere, is thus alluded to by the " JN'ew York Express " 
this evening; : — 

" New York, July IQth — P. M. — The joint special Committee 
of Select and Common Councils of the city of Philadelphia, — con- 
sisting of Messrs. Stephen Benton, Henry Davis, and AYilliam 
Bradford, on the part of Select Council ; S. H. Case, Chas. H. 
Cramp, and William H. Baird, on the part of Common Council ; 
and Eobert S. Reed and Lorin Blodget, on the part of the Board 
of Trade, — appointed to visit New York for the purpose of 
inducing the directors of the Great Eastern to visit Philadelphia, 
arrived in this city at noon, and were formally received by Capt. 
Vine Hall, on the Leviathan, with the utmost cordiality and 
delight. The committee were first courteously shown over the 
ship hy Capt. Hall, and then proceeded to the captain's private 
apartments, where they were introduced to the officers of the 
ship. Mr. Benton, the chairman, said that, ' He felt happy in 
being the official bearer of the friendly resolutions of the city 
councils of Philadelphia to the gentlemen connected with the 
greatest mechanical enterprise of the age ; and he felt assured 
that a favourable consideration of the invitation to bring the ship 
to Philadelphia would result in a substantial advantage to those 
whom the officers represented.' 

" To this Captain Hall made a graceful response, in which he said 



40 THE GREAT EASTEEN's LOG. 

that the facts and arguments would be fairly weighed and dulj 
considered, and it would afford him the highest gratification if the 
^hip could be taken to Philadelphia. 

" The government coast survey charts were then laid before the 
officers, and an earnest discussion took place between the Phila- 
delphians and the representatives of the Great Eastern. It was 
proved, conclusively, that ships with a draught of 254 feet could 
be safely brought to Philadelphia, and the safe arrival of the 
Cathedral was quoted as the proof. The ship was brought to 
ihe city some months ago with the above-mentioned draught of 
water, being unable to get over the bar at 'New York. 

" Captain Hall assured the committee, that if the channel was 
of the asserted depth, there would be no trouble in taking the 
ship round, and he seemed quite delighted at the assurance of 
the committee of the warm public interest felt in Philadelphia in 
behalf of the proposed ' coming of the Leviathan.' It was posi- 
tively ascertained that the first difficult point in the navigation of 
the Delaware is the Hog Island Shoal, at Port Mifflin, which is 
dangerous not only on account of the bar, but also the abrupt 
angle of the channel ; but this can no doubt be safely got over. 

"A chart of the river front was also shown, by which it was 
clearly established that the ship could be moored at any point on 
the river front from Kensington to the Navy Yard, in a depth of 
from 40 to 70 feet, at which Captain Hall was delighted, and said 
repeatedly, in his bluff, frank, hearty English way, ' It is a fine 
river — it is a fine river ! ' There can be no doubt of this, for 
with all the boasted superiority of the harbour of New York, the 
Great Eastern is lying aground at low tide. The maps and charts, 
together with the data and information carefully prepared in every 
point, were left with the officers at the captain's request, with the 
understanding that they desired another interview to-morrow 
(Wednesday) at twelve o'clock. 

" The committee were highly pleased with tlie kindness of the 
captain, and they feel assured that it is already a fixed fact that 
the Great Eastern wdll visit Pliiladelphia. Majiy inquiries were 
made after well-known Philadelphians, particularly Captain James 
West, the ' veteran of the Atlantic ; ' and much delight was 
expressed on the part of the subordinate officers at the prospect 
of the visit to the Keystone city." 

The Philadelphians were, however, doomed to disappointment ; 
for it was next day settled, the risk being considered too great, 
not to attempt taking the ship there. Eight thousand persons 
visited the ship to-day, among whom were a number of excur- 
sionists from difterent parts. On the 18th, our commander, 
accompanied by the surgeon and second officer, left on a trip to 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 41 

Kiagara, the assistant-surgeou starting alone on a trip farther 
west. Ship, as usual, full of visitors from 8 a.m., till 7 p.m. ; 
weather very warm. A New Yorker accosted me this moniiug 
with " Well, Mister, 1 reckon you've got a mighty fine ship here ; 
1 guess you've licked us this time." Another said, " There 's a 
mighty sight of iron about this ' boat ;' but I guess we can build 
wooden ships : we want none of your darned iron in this ' free 
country.' JSo you had to come to America to get the idea how to 
build her ; suppose you know you stole the lines from us." One 
old lady asked if the " donke}^ engines were not for conveying 
visitors about the decks, 'cause, if so, she guessed she'd like a 
ride." Questions of all sorts pour thick and fast upon us, and it 
requires great forbearance to treat all comers with civility, some 
questions reflecting anything but credit on the asker, and many 
being downright insulting. On the succeeding day, the directors 
officially announced, that the exhibition of the Great Eastern 
would positively close on Saturday, July 25th, and that she would 
positively sail for England, via Jialifax, on the 16th of August 
next. In order to accommodate persons who desire to go on a 
short excursion, a trip to Cape May has been decided on. This 
will take place on Monday, July oOth ; and on Wednesday, 
August 10th, the Great Eastern will return to New York. Tne 
fare for the two days' trip will be ten dollars, exclusive of refresh- 
ment, which will be provided on board. 

About 10 P.M. last eveniuo:, a larg^e ball of bluish fire was seen 
in the western sky, at an elevation of about 15 degrees ; its course 
was about E. by S., and as it approached the meridiau it burst, 
and then two reddish coloured meteors, with tails of streauiing 
fire, with falling sparks, shot on towards the east ; the velocity 
of these was about 20 degrees per minute. They travelled in 
line, and at an equal elevation, disappearing in the east in about 
two minutes after the phenomenon was first seen. 

Sunday, 22nd. — Ship closed to visitors ; weather very fine, photo- 
graphers at work taking views of different parts of-the ship. The 
Kev. C. M. DenisoD, minister at the Seaman's Chapel, held 
divine service on board, as also last Sunday. 

Monday, 2^rd. — Strong southerly winds and much rain, clearing 
up towards the afternoon ; we have two bands playing for the 
amusement of visitors, one in the saloon, and Dodworth's 
(celebrated as the best in the country), on the quarter-deck. A 
great number of visitors on board this day, and on the succeeding 
one the astonishing number of 16,300 had a look at the big ship ; 
they were principally excursionists. T. P. Barjium made an offer 
to buy up the whole of our Cape May excufsion tickets (they 
are limited to two thousand), and pay 20,000 dollars in cash for 



42 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

them. The directors, however, very properly refused, determining 
to dispose of not more than five to any one person. The crowd 
on board this day was so great, as to render it a work of no little 
difficulty to get about the decks. The papers to day are full of 
accounts of the wonderful meteoric phenomenon of the 20th. lu 
the evening I visited Mr. Barnum's American Museum, M'here, 
for the charge of one shilling, amusements of all kinds are pro- 
vided, including a theatrical performance (a seat in the boxes 
being 7hd. extra), " cariosities," both living and dead, wax-figures, 
very fine and well-stocked aquariums, the "happy family" on a 
large scale; a living skeleton, lightnhig calculator, the Albino 
family, with pink eyes and long silky white hair, and last, though 
decidedly not least, a fat boy of seven years of age, weighing 
257 lbs., and measuring 61 inches round the chest ! This 
museum is well worthy a visit at six times the money. The 
visitors (as before, mostly excursionists), attained on the 25th 
the extraordinary number of 17,000. Visited, and had a long 
conversation with, the Erench giant, M. Joseph (exhibiting in a 
tent alongside the ship), from whom I learnt, that many years 
ago he was performing at some of the London theatres, and was 
well acquainted with the late Albert Smith, being then styled the 
Belgian Giant. He is 7 feet 8 inches in height, weighing 
4u01bs., and is a man of immense muscular powers. 

Thursday, 2Qth. — Were visited, by invitation, by a ISTew York 
volunteer Militia company, formed entirely of Scotchnien, wearing 
the Highland costume. At 3 p.m. a heavy thunder-storm burst over 
the ship, and it continued to rain heavily up to 7 p.m., much to the 
discomfort of our numerous lady visitors, and the destruction of 
their extensive silks and crinolines. We did what we could to 
make them comfortable during the rain, giving up the use of our 
cabins to them : such attentions are by some courteously acknow- 
ledged, while others take them as a right. The word " private " 
over a door in England would be sufficient to keep visitors from 
entering, but not so here ; some two or three blackguards in the 
face of that notice, entered the superintendent purser's cabin 
while that gentleman was balancing his accounts, and on being 
politely requested to withdraw, one of the ruffians unhooked a 
large picture in a gilt frame hanging on a panel and threw it at 
his head, smashing the picture to pieces. I niight mention several 
outrages of the same kind, although some of the perpetrators did 
not get off without a "receipt" for their "politeness." The 
only notice taken of the ship to day by the press is the 
following : — 

" Last Days of the Great Eastert^-. — About 17,000 persons 
visited the Great Eastern yesterday, filling the ship from the time 



THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 43 

of openinf^ in the morniDg, until the gate was closed at night. 
Dodworth's band struck up some lively music in the afternoon, 
which gave much pleasure to the crowds that were present. 
Notwithstanding the extraordinary number of visitors, all incon- 
venience in seeing the various parts of the ship was prevented by 
men stationed by the officers to answer all inquiries, and by the 
new guide book, of which many avail themselves. 

"The arrangements for the Cape May excursion are rapidly 
progressing, and from present appearances, the excursionists will 
be well provided for." 

I am thus particular in inserting extracts from the different 
papers, as I wish the New Yorkers to speak for themselves con- 
cerning the Great Eastern, and to show how little it takes to 
turn the current of popular favour to a swift running stream in 
the contrary direction. On the following day (Friday), 18,000 
persons visited the ship. Among them was one old gentleman, 
perfectly blind, who had come all the way from AVisconsin, pur- 
posely to "feel " the big ship. He was conducted round by some 
friends, and asking for an explanation of all he "felt.'' He 
appeared to derive considerable entertainment from his visit. At 
7 P.M., great excitement was caused by observing a screw steam- 
boat on fire at some little distance from the ship : it proved to be 
the "T. C. Durant." She left her wharf with fifteen passengers, 
including some women and children, and after getting into the 
river, a fire was discovered in the after part under the main deck, 
and near the boilers. The excitement among the passengers 
became very great ; and the female portion ran about her decks 
screaming and acting in a frantic manner : in less than ten 
minutes the stern was enveloped in flames. The captain very 
wisely ran her on shore, and thus saved all lives. The flames were 
not extinguished tdl damage had been done to the amount of 
5000 dollars. On the first alarm, three of the boats of the Great 
Eastern were manned and cleared for lowering, but the intention of 
the captain of the burning vessel to run her on shore being 
perceived, they were not sent, as the people were out before the 
boats could have got alongside. Blondin and his wife visited the 
ship, and dined with us to-day, being much delighted with all 
they saw. He expressed a wish to stretch a rope across our 
mast-heads, and walk from one to the other. I learnt from him, 
that while he was performing on his slack-rope over Niagara, 
three days back, his gold medal (presented to him by the people 
of Buftalo) fell from his breast into the boiling torrent belovy. 
" I felt inclined to jump in after it," said he ; " but," turning to his 
wife, " I thought of you, my dear, so just stopped where I was." 
He seemed rather disconsolate at his loss, as he prizes anything 



44 THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

of tliis sort very mucli. He intends crossing on stilts when the 
Prince of Wales visits Niagara. The "Herald" of to-day has 
the following : — 

" The Great Eastern. 

" AN IMMENSE CROWD— EIGHTEEN THOUSAND PEOPLE ON BOAED — ASSAULT ON 
ONE OF THE OFFICERS — AMERICAN RUFFIANISM VERSUS ENGLISH COURTESY 
— THE CAPE MAT EXCURSION — SLEEPING AND EATING — THE HIGHLAND- 
ERS, &C. 

" Eeader, do you want to see a crowd ? To be squeezed, reduced, 
contracted and epitomised, dovetailed and wedged in; to be 
scowled at by women and anathematised by men ; to have your 
uninsured corn plantations remorselessly trod upon, and to groan 
in the very vexation of spirit thereat ; to have parasols stuck in 
your eyes, and elbows in j^our ribs ; your hat smashed, your 
bosom mussed, or if a female, your crinoline compressed into 
shapes so indefinite that geometry is defied to supply a name ; to 
pay half a dollar for the privilege of being pummiced down by 
constant attrition against your fellow men (to say nothing of the 
women), and have an incomparable sweat-bath thrown into the 
bargain ; to take your wife and daughter to see a show and be 
treated to intermittent glimpses of it between your neighbours' 
legs or over the summits of their heads ? In a word, do you want 
to feel that you are nobody — neither a slice of lemon nor a lump 
of sugar, but an amazingly small drop of a compound mixture in 
which your natural identity is for the moment gone ? If so, go 
on board the Great Eastern in these final hours of her visit to 
American shores. 

" People often frequent public places, no matter whether the 
occasion be a sermon or a play, for the purpose mainly of seeing 
the crowd. To all such we say go and stand an hour near the 
passages of the big ship. AVe have mingled somewhat in the 
miscellaneous multitudes of Gotham, and have been reduced to 
dimensions smaller than nature ever intended, but in all our 
metropolitan experience we have never seen any gatherings from 
day to day to which that now daily coursing the decks of the big 
ship would bear any comparison. 

" The Academy of Music in its palmiest nights is ' not a touch 
to it.' The Jenny Lind concerts, years ago, were only a circum- 
stance, and so far as any other continuous entertainment can be 
mentioned, we do not remember an instance, when, to follow up 
our plebeian quotations, the crowd could ' hold a candle ' to that 
which we have recorded as a part of the American history of the 
Great Eastern. 

" AA^e cannot afford a better illustration of the character of this 
throng than to suppose a couple of our popular churches stationed 



THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 45 

at either end of a short street, with their doors tlirown open for 
the egress of a hungry audience about dinner-time. One of these 
would fairly represent the going and the other the returning 
throng. In this manner the excitement is kept up nearly the 
entire day. The climax is reached about two o'clock in the after- 
noon, but the stream of humanity continues its flow until four or 
live o'clock, before the diminution is really perceptible. Even 
then the decks are almost uncomfortably compact with visitors, by 
reason of the presence of Dodworth's band, and the music they 
daily discourse to the admiration of our country friends ; but it is, 
nevertheless, a good time to make a tour of the ship. A still later 
hour, say from half-past five to seven, is preferable, however, for 
one can then look about without being subject to the annoyances 
to which we have referred. 

" The number of visitors on board yesterday up to one o'clock, 
was not far from ten thousand, and from this time until about four 
they grew in numbers at the rate of two thousand an hour, until 
nearly nineteen thousand people had been recorded as having 
entered the ship. 

" The heavy shower in the afternoon produced a little lull, but 
the scrambling on deck towards the lower regions to get out of 
the wet, was quite as bad in its collective and individual results as 
if several thousand people had been instantaneously added to the 
number. Notwithstanding this immense presence, every person 
was in due time favoured to his entire satisfaction with a complete 
view of the -ship. Attendants were stationed at several of the 
companion ways to prevent the rush, and to dispose of the crowd 
as fast as it accumulated, while Mr. Bold, the general financial 
manager of the Grreat Eastern Company, and Messrs. Machin, 
Davis, and Wallace, officers of the ship, were unceasing in their 
eflbrts to afi'ord proper facilities to all for enjoying their visit. 

" There are some individuals, however, and we regret to acknow- 
ledge it, who do not seem to appreciate kindness, no matter how 
disinterested, and are always disposed, when they receive an inch, 
to take an ell. One of this sort yesterday unceremoniously en- 
tered the room of one of the officers. Supposing it to be a mistake, 
the latter courteously remarked that it was a private apartment, 
and not intended for exhibition. The fellow, who was meanwhile 
fumbling at some account-book on the table, savagely replied, he 
' Didn't care a d — n what it was for ; he had paid his money, 
and was bound to see all there was to be seen.' Being then 
ordered to leave the cabin, he seized a large glass frame containing 
one of the printed regulations of the ship, and with all his force 
threw it at the officer, and backed out. Fortunately it did not 
strike its mark, and more fortunately for the ruffian, the gentle- 
man had the forbearance not to shoot him on the spot, as he had 



46 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

the means of doing, and as many others similarly situated would 
have done, or even to have had him arrested and punished as he 
deserved. 

" In this connection, it may be added that there is not an officer 
attached to the Great Eastern who is not a perfect gentleman and 
entitled to gentlemanly treatment. They are courteous to our 
citizens and to visitors far beyond the ordinary requirements of 
civility; and if all the ladies and gentlemen who have visited the 
ship and been the recipients of their hospitality, were called upon 
to announce the fact, the record would show that they have not 
been a whit behind our own residents in bestowing those dehcate 
attentions which so quickly knit the friendly tie, even upon those 
who have not the slightest claim upon them or an acquaintance 
that extends beyond the passing moment." 



Saturday, the 2Sfh, is the last day of exhibition prior to leaving 
for Cape May. The ship as usual very full of visitors from all 
parts of New York state. One lady, having three children with 
lier, brought me a letter of introduction from Toronto in Canada; 
her curiosity must indeed have been great to have brought her all 
that way to see the Great Eastern, but I am ungallant enough to 
believe that the last new fashions in some of the Broadway stores 
had far more attraction. 

The following is the register of visitors from the first day : — 

First 5 days, at 1 dollar .... 8,578 

Second week, at i dollar .... 26,821 

Third „ „ .... 32,029 

Fourth „ „ 76,336 

Total .... 143,764 

Having some conversation with a gentleman to-day upon the 
subject of " equality," I related. to him this anecdote, which amused 
him very much. Whilst in London, chief officer of an East 
Indiaman, and lying in the East India Docks, I stepped out so 
far as the lock entrance to witness the arrival of a vessel of the 
same class just returned from Calcutta, called the Nile, the chief 
officer of which ship (an old friend of mine), in the pride of 
uniform and a safe return home after an arduous voyage, stood on 
the forecastle returning the salutes of his numerous friends (some 
eight or nine hundred people being assembled on Brunswick 
pier). Under the bow of this noble ship, and blocking up the 
entrance to the docks, was a lighter full of wet shingly ballast ; 
the man in charge (an Irishman) was attired in a red cotton 
nightcap, a very dilapidated blue serge shirt, a pair of old dirty 
drawers and cluaisy boots completing his costume : he was com- 



THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 47 

plncently sucking at a short black pipe. Mj friend hailed him 
from the deck of his ship, some twenty feet above, with " Get out 
of the way with that ballast-lighter, will you ? " This, twice 
repeated, drew forth the following colloquy: — "Are you the 
captain of that ship?" "No, I'm not," was the answer, "but 
I'm chief officer." " Well," said Piiddy, with the most provoking 
indifference, "spake to your aquals ; I'm captain of this one!" 
Amidst the roars of laughter which followed this retort, my friend 
vanished. 

There were many visitors from the country on board this day : 
the distant rural suburbs were well represented ; foreign-cut coats, 
and antique shapes of all kinds of provincial habiliments were very 
conspicuous. G-entlemen with much more health in their faces, 
and less nap on their broadcloth, than is seen in Pifth Avenue, 
were also present in goodly number ; while white-panted and 
loose-jacketed Great Easterns were swaggering about the decks ; 
and the officers, evidently in excellent health, mingled their 
English rotundity of form with the fragile figures of the New 
York belles. At 7 p.m our visitors were all rung out, and the 
workmen commenced clearing awav the entrance and exit gang- 
ways, and making other preparations for a move to-morrow. 

Sundaif, 29th. — Dull, cloudy weather, and showers, with 
strong 8.E, winds. Commenced at 6 a.m getting on board 
moorings, anchors, &c. ; and at 4.30 p.m., being high water, and 
steam ready, let go our fasts, and in the presence of eight or nine 
thousand persons steamed off from the wharf and anchored in the 
centre of the river, the whole operation not taking half an hour. 
The first revolution of our immense screw-blades brought to the 
surface the body of the unfortunate man who was drowned the 
night after our arrival ; it was picked up, and after a coroner's 
inquest, was decently interred. It rained with great violence the 
whole night, with a strong wind from the S.E. 

Monday, SO tJi. — The day appointed for our departure for 
Cape May was fine and warm, with but little wind. The ex- 
cursionists, to the number of about 1500, commenced arriving 
at 1 P.M., in small steamers engaged for that purpose by the 
directors, and at 4 p.m. they were all on board. Two of the best 
bands procurable in New York, as well as our own, were provided 
for the amusement of the music and dancing loving portion of our 
friends. Extensive preparations had been made, and quite an 
army of black waiters engaged to attend to their creature comforts ; 
and over a thousand mattresses bought, in addition to our already 
large supply, on which they might rest their wearied bones. 
Everybody anticipated a pleasant two days' trip : for once, every- 
body was mistaken ; but I will leave the tale to the reporter of 



48 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 

the "New York Herald," whose narrative displays none of the 
malice to be found in the other newspapers. 

" The Geeat Easter^t Picinc. 

" THE DEPARTURE OF THE LEVIATHAN FOR CAPE MAY. 

" TWO THOUSAND PEOPLE ON BOARD — THE SCENE IN THE BAT — THE ESCORT AND 
THE ENTHUSIASM — A NIGHT ON THE ATLANTIC— FUN, HUNGER, MISERY, AJJD 
ItlATTBESSES — AN INDIGNATION MEETING ON BOARD — AMUSING SCENES AND 
INCIDENTS — A MAN OVERBOARD — THE RETURN HOME, ETC., ETC., ETC. 

" The history of the Great Eastern has been one of epochs. 
Whether on the stocks or in the water, in the long process of a 
launch, or the scene of a life-destroying explosion, on a passage 
across the Atlantic, or as the focus of a multitude — from her 
conception nn til the present moment, the events that have followed 
each other thick and fast in her chequered career have partaken of 
the stupendous character of tlie big ship itself. 

" The present excursion ought not to be excluded from this cata- 
logue, for while it is no uncommon occurrence for a company, much 
greater in number than that now throbbing around me, to embark on 
a jollification jaunt to a distant place, never, in the history of this or 
any other country, has there been such a conglomeration of humanity, 
such a scene and such surroundings, as those which characterise 
this first pleasure peregrination of the colossal Queen of the Sea. 
As such, it is worthy of a place in the current record of the times. 

" A trip to Cape May is an event of ordinary occurrence ; but a 
trip in the Great Eastern is another thing; and when it was 
modestly announced in the journals of the day that she would 
proceed thither for the purpose of affording the public an oppor- 
tunity of personally enjoying such a voyage, there were few hearts 
that did not pulsate in sympathy with the thought, * How I should 
like to go.' One drawback, however, and a mot?t essential one, 
too, prevented many from yielding to this first and strongest 
impulse. With that keen eye to the interests entrusted to their 
care which has throughout characterised the management of the 
big ship on the part of the directors representing the Great 
Eastern Company in this country, these gentlemen saw fit to 
charge, for the privilege of a two days' sail, the high price of ten 
dollars, exclusive of the keeping and necessary comforts of the 
voyagers. Naturally, every one commenced his arithmetical cal- 
culations. Here were four dollars extra for a berth in which to 
sleep, at least two dollars a day per head for the privilege of 
eating, an additional two dollars for a twelve hours' interval at 
Cape May, and sundry other miscellaneous incidentals, which 
would swell the expense well nigh upon twenty dollars. The 
result was, that for the entire week following the advertisement 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 49 

the utmost indifference appeared to prevail, and it was only now 
and then that one could be found in the whole community anxious 
to come forward and loosen his purse strings to the required 
extent. Up to Saturday night this number amounted to the 
insignificant figure of eight hundred, and the contemplated 
excursion promised to be a magnificent failure. The threatening 
weather of Sunday did not at all improve the financial prospect of 
the undertaking, and it was only when the breaking clouds of 
Monday, the culminating excitement of expectation, and the pro- 
babilities of a splendid trip, lent their convincing aid, that the 
public came forward and swelled the number to the limits which 
is is understood had been set by the directors, namely, two 
thousand. 

''the EMBARKATI03?'. 

" As we have already stated, the G-reat Eastern hauled off into 
the stream on Sunday afternoon, and there, lying just opposite the 
mansion of Commodore Stevens, at Hoboken, she waited the 
arrival of those who were to compose her party. In order to 
accommodate the excursionists, two small steamers were provided, 
which, at intervals of fifteen minutes or thereabouts, ran between 
the ship and the foot of Hammond street, where they had been 
requested to assemble. Here, on our arrival, a busy scene pre- 
sented itself. First, was the crowd, so dense that it was almost 
impossible to make one's way through it ; then we stumbled upon 
a dozen or more carriages, bringing both visitors and lookers on ; 
and, fi^nally, on arriving at the edge of the dock, we came upon the 
little steamer that was to convey us on board. Three or four trucks 
were drawn up in close proximity to the boat, loaded down with 
mattresses, a part of the instalment ordered for the accommodation 
of the passengers, and these were being passed to the deck of the 
steamer. A pile of baggage lay on the wharf marked for Cape 
May and Philadelphia, which looked as though some Elora 
McFlimsey had judiciously selected the Great Eastern for her 
journey, and from one to two hundred individuals were dovetailed 
together in the little space allotted to passengers, anxiously 
waitmg the termination of the loading process to which we have 
alluded. 

" Patience soon found its reward, however, and in a few minutes 
we were ploughing the waters of the Hudson and alongside of the 
Great Eastern. To run up the side stairway, present our ticket 
to the oflB.cer at the gangway, pass the inspection of three or four 
detectives who have been engaged for the purpose, is but the work 
of a few seconds, and we find ourselves on board. A couple of 
hundred have preceded us, and carpet bags and trunks strewn 



50 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

around, indicate that their owners either have determined to come 
well provided with clothing and fodder, or that a large number 
purpose extending their journey from Cape May to other points. 
Several baskets here and there very plainly contain the good things 
of life, and though a smile was excited at the thought of ' bring- 
ing coals to Newcastle,' we have since had occasion to envy the 
forethought which led their owners to look out for number one 
before they started, rather than trust to the uncertain manage- 
ment of the providers on board. 

" Only a few minutes pass before another steamer approaches. 
Its crowd of two or three hundred are discharged, and come hurry- 
ing up the gangway, as we did before them. Dodworth's band 
arrives, and the big fiddles and little fiddles, packages of music, 
and musical instruments that follow them, give promise of a rich 
treat to those who love the concord of sweet sounds. The load is 
discharged, the lines are cast off, and the little minnow of a steam- 
boat drops astern to give place to another, and another, and 
another, until by two o'clock some two thousand people have been 
transported from the shore, and are promenading the deck, listen- 
ing to the music, discussing the approaching excursion, or 
rambling in the abysses.of the vast ship which has attracted them 
from their homes and business. 

" It may be interesting to some to know the style of our ticket. 
It was about as follows, for we write from memory : — 



of 



EXCUKSION TICKET. 

STEAMSHIP GREAT EASTERN. . ^ 

FROM NEW YORK TO CAPE MAT, AND RETURN. ^ 

Leaving New York, July 30, at 3 p.m.; leaving Cape May, I 

July 31, at 6 P.M. j 

Price, Ten Dollars. ^ 

J. H. YATES, Secretary. \ 

" The company having now fully arrived, we have an opportunity 
looking around and seeing 

cc . 



THE PEOPLE 0^ BOAED. 



" It would be a task to name all of these, for they represent every 
class and condition likely to be present on an occasion of this nature. 
They come, too, from almost, if not quite, every State in the Union, 
as well as from many of the countries of Europe, to say nothing 
of Africa, which a score of dark-skinned waiters on board almost 
constantly call to mind. Millionaires, ministers, lawyers, editors, 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 51 

reporters, doctors, tradesmen, poets, artists, authoresses, poli- 
ticians, gamblers, prize-fighters, and gentlemen at large, all pass 
in review, and give to the assemblage a cosmopolitan character 
which it could not possibly have in any city outside of New 
York. Quite a considerable proportion is composed of ladies, 
and, strange to say for such a gathering, there is not one observable 
on whom suspicion can for a moment rest. 

" Messrs. Dickson, Young, Farley, Radford, and Duzenbury, 
detectives, and Captain Seabring, of the Ninth precinct, are also 
on board, and though their services have not as yet been required 
their presence has doubtless been valuable, on the principle that 
' an ounce of preventive is worth a pound of cure.' 

" It was amusing, however, to watch this variegated throng as 
they came on board. 

" ' "Where's my state room ? ' was the universal inquiry, and in- 
variably the first movement was in the direction of the imaginary 
place where they were to repose, or the imaginary individual who 
kept the keys to these Morphean recesses. Officers, servants, 
seamen — people of all others on the ship the least capable of im- 
parting the required information — were buttonholed, annoyed and 
victimised by the impatient crowd, until they were almost hoarse 
with—' Go to Mr. B.' 

"' Who's Mr. B.?' 

'' ' The man with the blue ribbon around his hat and book under 
his arm — who is always taking snuff".' (We may also add that 
he is the financial manager of the affairs of the ship.) 

" The result is that the brunt of these attacks fell upon the un- 
fortunate gentleman whose ' blue ribbon ' made him such a con- 
spicuous mark of attraction. "With a fund of pleasantry, however, 
which, like a shrewd politician he knew how to use, the pertinacious 
applicants were requested to wait until after the starting of the 
ship, and for the time he was left to enjoy his snuff'-box and 
neuralgia in something like the peace he coveted. 

" It was now about three o'clock. 



" THE APPEAEANCE OF THE CEOWD. 

" At this time it was interesting in the extreme. So far as 
numbers are concerned, they exceeded even those who witnessed 
the arrival of the Great Eastern. On both sides of tlie river, as 
far as the eye could reach, up and down, the shore was black with 
people. Housetops, hillsides, wharves, ships, barges, rigging — 
everything that afforded foothold to see the spectacle, was occupied. 
Immediately around the ship lay a score of steamboats, tugs, row- 
boats, and small craft, all loaded to the water's edge and waiting 

E 2 



52 



THE GREAT EASTEEN S LOG. 



the departure of the ship. 
however, 



Owing to the perversity of the tide, 



THE STAET 



did not take place until after four o'clock. As we have before 
remarked, the Great Eastern lay with her head up the stream. In 
order to turn the gigantic vessel the steamtugs Achilles and 
Yankee were employed, but for more than half an hour after the 
huge anchor left its muddy bed — the largest by the way that ever 
rested on the bottom of the Hudson — they strove with might 
and main to bring her into proper position. The ship yielded 
gradually, however, and at a quarter to five o'clock the revolution 
of the paddles and the screw, and the long white wake behind, 
announced that we were fairly on our way to sea. 

" The scene that now ensued is one that cannot be soon forgotten 
by any individual who witnessed it. The multitude of humanity 
was visible on every side. On shore the eye rested upon nothing 
but crowds, extending even back into the country as far as the 
vision could reach, and on the water eighteen or twenty steamers 
loaded to the guards, bedecked with colours, whistling their 
enthusiasm and thundering their salutations, glided along in the 
huge shadow of the Great Eastern as it trembled in the waters of 
the bay. We did not count all of tliese, but the following are 
the names of those recalled to mind at the present moment, 
together with the estimated number of passengers on board : — 



Keyport . 


250 


Flora 


. 700 


Flushing 


. 400 


Columbia 


. . 700 


Delaware 


700 


Paterson . 


. 700 


Tiger .... 


400 


Francis G. Speight 


. . 600 


Eed Jacket . 


700 


J. S. Darcy 


. 600 


Thos. Hulse 


300 


Hudson 


. . 400 


Jas. A. Stevens 


400 


J. B. Frazer 


. 900 


Hendrik Hudsou . . 


3,000 








Thos. Hunt . 


500 


Total 


. 11,750 


Satellite . 


700 







" Onward we ploughed, passing the crowded Battery, the revenue 
cutter Harriet Lane, Governor's Island, Staten Island, the 
Narrows, and other places about which the story has already been 
told. Without, it is not difficult to imagine the appearance of 
twenty steamers, loaded down to the water's edge, constituting 
an aquatic escort, of which none could be a more worthy object 
than the noble ship upon which we are ; while within and around 
us the excursionists have betaken themselves to every locality on 
the ship where they are not positively forbidden, to enjoy the 
spectacle. Some are in the tops- others are scattered through the 
rigging ; many of the ladies have taken the platforms at the base 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 53 

of the wlieelhouses, "while the majority of the passengers are 
located along the bulwarks, standing on tiptoe, with their glasses 
peering at the ten thousand objects of interest around. 

" The day is glorious. The ragged, threatening clouds have 
broken away in great masses, that are rolling off in the distance. 
The warm sunshine has tinged all nature with its loveliness, and 
the brightest anticipations of a pleasant excursion bid fair to be 
realised. 

" THE BAE. 

" I do not mean the bar on board, but the bar off Sandy Hook, 
about which so many country editors have written the most fear- 
fully discouraging leading articles. Little occurred during the 
sail down the bay worthy of addition to what has already been 
indited ; but as we progressed towards the bar the interest among 
the passengers to see a locality about which so much has been 
said, led them to take places where they could command a view 
of the operations, and satisfy themselves by a personal inspection 
of the dangers of the place. Consequently they looked long and 
earnestly. They scanned the water with their glasses, then the 
bronzed face of pilot Murphy, then the captain, and then the 
water again ; but we venture to say that few of them had any 
more idea of the real locaHty of the spot than did our Japanese 
friends of the constitutional morality of their Aldermanic con- 
freres. The passage took place at twelve minutes past seven o'clock. 
The ship drew twenty-four and a half feet of water, and it is 
needless to say she went over without the slightest difficulty. The 
engines were ' slowed,' and a little more watchfulness was evident 
on the part of the officers, but aside from these incidental features 
of careful navigation, nothing occurred to indicate an extraordinary 
event. In fact, it seems to have been plainly proven that the 
Great Eastern may be as easily brought into the bay of New 
York as any other ship that has ever sailed in and out of it, and 
that the thousand and one stories respecting the absence of suffi- 
cient water and the dangers of navigation, are idle fabrications of 
the hour. 

" At this point our escort left us. The little fleet of steamers 
that had been flitting about like so many flying flsh, one by one 
dropped astern, parting cheers were exchanged, and the Grreat 
Eastern, alone and unattended, stood on her stately way towards 
her ocean-bound destination. 

" The working of the massive machinery of the ship during this 
period was perfect. Nothing could have been more beautiful or 
wonderful. Without noise or jar — without even sufficient vibra- 
tion to disturb the surface of the oil in the cups that revolve with 



54 THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

the huge rods — the immense complication moved with a power 
that seemed almost sup ernatu rally sublime. The ship likewise 
behaved admirably, and, though occasionally yielding to the long 
ground swell of the Atlantic, it was always with such gentle grace 
and easy movement that it was impossible to be so uncompli- 
mentary as to succumb to even a single sea sick qualm. An hour 
or two later, however, we did see a few ladies and weakly gentle- 
men from the country, looking very much as if they could't help it; 
but the cause was doubtless due quite as much to their preced- 
ing carnivorous exploits as to the graceful undulations of the 
ship. 

" SUPPEE. 

" It was now what a sentimental miss would term ' the lovely 
and languid hour of twilight.' A majority of those on board had 
provided themselves with a hearty dinner before coming on board, 
but with a sea breeze in one's composition for six hours it is im- 
possible to resist the pangs of hunger at some time, and the con- 
sequence was that as soon as the bar was passed a rush took place 
for supper that reminded us of the double quicks'tep charge of the 
Zouaves at the Academy of Music the other night. The simile 
might be followed up by the remark that they didn't enjoy a much 
better opportunity of doing execution. It was merely a charge 
* at ' and not ' into.' In other words, the feeding arrangement, 
from beginning to end, was a specimen of mismanagement and in- 
experience that might have been expected from some half civilised 
Hottentot, whose brains and taste had been used up in acquiring 
the little information he knew, but which one would not look for 
in any representative of that august body — the Great Eastern 
Steamship Company. The meals, and the manner in which they 
were served up, were hardly worthy of comparison with the style 
of ' Dotheboys' Hall.' In fact, ' Old Squeers ' himself, merely 
minus his bowl of molasses, galvanised into life for the occasion, 
might, without a great stretch of imagination, have been seen 
strutting around his scanty boards, in the well developed rotundity 
of the provider of the ship, as complacently as if his tables groaned 
under the fat of the land. Perhaps they did, but the sub- 
scriber didn't see it. We thought to ourself that he would be an 
unlucky Lazarus who was compelled to wait for crumbs at the 
door of such a Dives. 

" We shall not attempt a description. There was a good deal of 
spoon, some tablecloth, and a variety of incidentals pleasant to 
look upon, but as for the food, its appearance was as rare as a 
comet. The coffee gave out on the second round. It cost a fee 
of half a dollar merely to breathe the passing incense of a cup. 



THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 55 

Chickens smelt all over of antiquity ; ham was salt, beef tough ; 
tongue was nowhere, and ice, of which several tons had been 
shipped in the morniug, was said to have given out. In fact, a 
general famine would have overwhelmed all hands if the ship had 
been a meal and a half away from land. The waiters, too, were, 
with a few exceptions, rare specimens of their species. One of 
these exceptions— and we are glad to notice them — was the carver 
of the second dining saloon, who became so disgusted with the 
whole proceeding that he laid down his knife and cleared out in 
disgust. Another was a gentle old darkey, whose shaved head and 
.gathered topknot made him look like a venerable edition of a 
Japanese. The passengers called him the ' Tycoon,' and scores 
of ladies and gentlemen are indebted to his impartial care. 

" As for the rest, they were a set of unmitigated rascals. They 
would lie, cheat, steal your chairs, and almost your money. We 
heard one asked by a gentleman for a cup of coffee. ' All out,' 
was the reply. ' Go and get a little for my lady, won't you ? ' 
' Go to hell,' was the response, sotto voce, and the villain went 
off, with a mad flourish, as if he was going to tear the kitchen 
down. Others were perfectly blind and deaf, metaphorically 
speaking, to all inquiries, and it was only when their palms were 
scratched with the evil root, which they did not hesitate un- 
blushingly to ask for, that they seemed at all to comprehend that 
they had been industriously requested to obtain a desired article 
of food. 

" Wines, soda, and other liquors have been sold in large quantities ; 
but I must say it, to the credit of the two thousand people, that I 
have not yet seen a single individual in a state of intoxication. 

"A very judicious arrangement, had it been successfully carried 
outj would have been the publication as follows, of 

THE SCALE OF CHARGES FOR REFRESHMENTS ON THE 
GREAT EASTERN. 



Tea and coffee, per cup 


. 6 


Claret, quarts . . . $1 50 


Ham and Beef, per plate 


. . 25 


Sandwiches . . . .12 


Ham and chicken, do. 


. 30 


Veal and ham patties . .12 


Tongue, do. 


. . 25 


Beef ^ la mode ... 25 


T 

Ices 


. 15 


Biscuit and cake, each . . 6 


Mint julep, per glass . 


. . 12 


Lager bier, per glass . . 10 


Sherry cobblers, do. 


. 12 


Brandy, gm, rum and whiskey 12 


Claret, do. . 


. . 12 


Cider, | pint . . . .25 


Milk punch, | glass 


. 12 


Champagne, quarts . $2 00 


Iced milk , 


. . 10 


Do. pints . . 1 25 


Cocktails 


. 12 


Sherry, quarts . . . 1 50 



Soda -water, lemonade, cream soda, sarsaparilla, each, 12 c. 
To prevent mistakes, passengers are requested to pay on delivery. 

" For the first two hours at dinner by this means every individual 
succeeded in having himself waited upon, received his dish full of 



56 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 

pabulum, or rather the quantum prescribed, paid for it, and tra- 
velled. At present, however, thej seem of little more use than so 
many pieces of useless table furniture, and for practical purposes 
are laid aside. People are eating whatever thej can get. One of 
my neighbours at a table said a few minutes ago that he had had 
four consecutive rear ends of chickens in two meals, and was then 
at work upon the fifth, with a view to test a sixth, and continue 
the experiment until he had definitely ascertained whether or 
not any other part of that biped's anatomy had been brought on 
board. 

" If the question was asked, to whom does the blame belong ? I 
should say the provider, head steward, or caterer of the ship — a 
person by the name of C — . By a contract with the company he 
retains the privilege of feeding all persons on board the ship, from 
director to visitor, at certain prices, which are mutually fixed. I 
was informed that two or three others were also engaged with him 
in the speculation, and between them all they have succeeded in 
leeching the pubhc to an extent they will never enjoy again. They 
have neither the ability to plan nor the tact to execute, and as far 
as regards providing for the wants of two thousand people in the 
rough and tumble manner they have set about, it would have been 
quite as wise to have made a miscellaneous mixture of all that 
was to be eaten and drank in one big pot, divided a spoon among 
the multitude, and told them to go at it. Mr. C — may be a good 
man personally. We don't know him. He may have very excellent 
intentions, a benevolent disposition, and a strong constitution ; he 
may be punctual in his church attendance, reliable in his domestic 
duties, and unimpeachable as a citizen : but, notwithstanding all 
this, to-day has fully demonstrated that whatever may be his other 
virtues of head, heart, or person, Mr. C — * can't keep a hotel.' 

" THE FIGHT 02T BOAED. 

" How shall it be described ? It requires the brush of the painter 
more than the pen of a writer. In fact, the scene is not to be 
described. While I indite, men and women are preparing to 
^turn in,' with such accommodations as the ship affords. But, 
notwithstanding the' thousand extra mattresses provided, the care- 
ful arrangements that were supposed to have been made concerning 
the disposition of the state-rooms, and the boasted facilities of the 
big ship for carrying any number of passengers, more than one- 
third will fail to secure anything on which to lay their head but 
the iron walls of the vessel, a coil of damp rope, or what sailors call 
the 'soft side of a plank.' It is about eleven o'clock. The people in 
the saloons, especially gentlemen accompanied by ladies, are fran- 
tically flying from pillar to post, first in search of Mr. B — , then 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 57 

of Mr. Y — , and vice versa, until these gentlemen liaye got into 
such a sweat in their efforts to accommodate, that they have had 
to shut themselves up in their state-rooms to cool off. Something 
has gone wrong. The state-rooms have either got mixed, or the 
people have, and the result is that a man occasionally finds himself 
in one place and his wife tucked away somewhere else. Many 
who have paid for berths have been deprived of them entirely, and 
take their chances with those who have trusted to luck and dis- 
posed of themselves in regular camp style. 

" The picture of the saloons from stern to stem — for everything 
is reckoned backwards in this ship — is something like the fol- 
lowing : — First is the bar, now covered with saturated tablecloths, 
broken glasses, and empty bottles. Next a couple of the dining 
saloons, in which the waiters are hurriedly clearing away the 
debris of the day's work. Then we approach the ladies' saloon. 
Entering here we see on one of the velvet sofas a brace of children 
spread out at length, their mother watching over them. Indi- 
viduals are lying under the tables and scattered promiscuously 
around the floor. The same scene is repeated in the forward 
ladies' saloon, with the exception that more ladies compose the 
tableaux, and make a considerably wider spread. None of them 
have coverings other than their own shawls ; and the melody 
which their sonorous snores create might well have suggested the 
idea of an Eolian harp. It is hot and oppressive, however, and 
we hurry out 

" O^ DECK. 

" Here we get the crSfiie cJe la crime of this midnight somno- 
lescence. The sleepers are stretched out in all sorts, styles, shapes, 
forms, angles, and conditions. They emphatically lay around loose, 
looking very much as if they had been poured out of some big bag 
in a state of dilution and left to settle. You can begin to describe 
them anywhere. Some are packed away on the tops of the cabins, 
some are lying close alongside the bulwarks, some are sitting bolt 
upright, reposing obliquely, and stretched out on the straightest 
horizontal. Two individuals, more enterprising than the others, 
have sewed themselves between two mattresses, and are trying to 
nap it ; but every now and then some joker sits down on the 
bulging pile and educes a series of groans and maledictions that 
would wake the seven sleepers. A New York reporter and one of 
the detectives — a very fat one by the way — have quite sensibly 
crawled into a sheep-pen for the purpose of being undisturbed : 
but a party of promenaders have discovered their retreat, and for 
the last ten minutes they have been trying to provoke the wrath 
of the caged individuals to see whether the fat man can get out. 



58 THE GEE AT EASTEHN's LOG. 

" A speculative individual mounts the pen and exhibits tliem as 
wild animals, in a strain something like the following : — 

" ' Here, gentlemen, are some of the most extraordinary freaks 
of nature — animals that won't live upon the land and are bound to 
die in water. We have to feed 'em on seventeenth proof whiskey, 
which one man shoots into them with a double-barrelled squirt 
gun, while another holds their legs — a most interesting spec-ta-cle. 
Only five cents, and the refreshments thrown in. deeding time 
in fifteen minutes.' 

" A great crowd gather around, and the sport that ensues is im- 
inense. The reporter begs to be let out ; has got lots of work to 
do ; is in a great hurry, and make any quantity of excuses, but 
they don't ' take,' and a battery of conversation is fired oft' 
between the besiegers and the besieged. Among the visitors is 
George Wilkes, who, after a good laugh, ventures to inquire, 'Who 
put the animals in there ?' 

" ' The directors,' was the reply. 

" ' Can't you get out ? ' 

" ' No ; they've fastened us in.' 

" ' How do you like your pen ? ' 

" ' The pen,' says the fat man, in a deep ventricular voice. ' In 
my opinion, sir, the pen is mightier than the sword.' 

" ' Ha ! ha ! ha ! he ! he ! he ! ho ! ho ! ho ! ' cachinnate the 
crowd, at this witticism. ' Three cheers for the fat freak of 
nature,' which are given with a will. 

" ' How often do they feed you ? ' says one. 

" ' Hain't been fed at all.' 

" ' Call the directors ! Here's a case of starvation,' cries an 
individual on the outskirts. 

•' 'K'o; get 'em something to eat,' responds another. Porthwith 
a chap starts down the gangway, and, though it is midnight, 
in five minutes returns with the carcases of two Great Eastern 
chickens. 

" ' Where did you get them ? ' 

" ' Found 'em under C — 's bunk.' 

'" Good for him.' 

" ' Hungry ? ' inquires the chicken man, as he temptingly rubs 
them across the bars near the noses of the victims, like the keeper 
of a menagerie. 

" ' Yes, of course we are.' 

" ' Can you smell it ? ' 

" ' Yes, it's good and strong. Put it in here.' 

" ' Well, growl ! if you want it.' 

" ' Ugh h-h-h,' growl the ' animals ' in the most capacious and 
artistically bestial manner, and amid the cheers and laughter of 



THE GEE AT EASTERN'S LOG. 59 

tlie crowd. Tlie menagerie is fed, accordingly, the cliicken being 
passed in on the end of a long pole. 

" Somebody passes in a drink to wash the solids down, and the 
fun increases. 

" Here, again, are family groups. A wife is tucked in between 
two settees, and the husband sleeps crosswise. Another chap has 
a table turned upside down, and is snoozing at a two forty pace 
between the legs. Here are more piled away like mummies in 
the most unimaginable places possible, which only would enter 
the conception of a sleepy man. In short, from stem to stern, 
there is a row of beds and bodies which give the scene an appear- 
ance like that of a hospital filled with the victims of some prevail- 
ing epidemic. 

" Of course, in such a party there is fun — plenty of it. One 
group especially appears to be the centre of attraction. Three or 
four of the number are stretched out on their mattresses in the 
centre of the deck, while the crowd stand in a ring around them, 
and join in the laugh, the song or repartee. After a while one is 
introduced to make a speech, but, being unaccustomed to this 
work, he invites what he calls one of his ' Zou Zous,' whom he 
styles the ' Prize Baby,' to do it for him, whereupon the Prize 
Baby is received with cheers, and proceeds to publish to the 
crowd his diet, which he says consists of four hard boiled eggs and 
a blackberry three times a day, in soap and water (applause and 
laughter). This effort evidently finishes him, and he introduces 
his friend, ' Signor Mickey Earina, the celebrated Italian tenor, 
the greatest living artist of the age.' The tenor responds, in 
' sweet Irish brogue,' by a touching melody, which he denominates 
' a parody on the Dutch cheese.' Another is introduced as 
' Col. Bobolinkibus, aid to Gen. Garibaldi in the Mexican war,' 
and requested to ' turn around and show his honorable scars,' 
which are of course behind. As the capillary substance on the 
summit of his head is exceedingly brief, somebody proposes 
' three cheers for the man with the sand-papered head,' which 
are given with a will, and the military gentleman subsides upon 
his mattress. So the jokes go round. Everybody is good-natured, 
and witticisms fly thick and fast in every direction. 

" It would require half a page to record the amusing incidents 
connected with this party alone. The ' beasts ' were poked up 
with long poles, while the people cheered, shouted, yelled, hauled 
the cage around, squirted water with the hose, and raised the Old 
Nick generally. 

" ONE o'clock. 

" Some persevering individual has cured Dodworth's man of his 



60 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

ails and aches, and the string band are on deck, making music for 
a score or so of dancers. They are all men, however, and as a 
* stag ' affair, nuw and then interspersed with gymnastics and 
mattresses, it is irresistibly funny. The ladies seem as lively as a 
brood of canary birds with long tails, and though they do not 
indulge in the sport physically, their merry ringing laughter 
endorses the amusement as beyond reproach. Somebody has just 
proposed a mattress race, and hardly are the words out before 
fifty men, with beds on their backs, have started off on a scrub 
match by moonlight. How it terminates of course it is impossible 
to see, but there is an amount of jollity in the occasion sufficient 
to stock a dozen ordinary parties of a similar kind. An hour or 
so of this active exercise soon wears them out, however, and by 
three o'clock the whole group, in fact the whole deck, is in a state 
of profound slumber. 

" I was informed that at about two o'clock one of the mattresses 
was discovered to be on fire, owing to the careless distribution of 
a segar, and for a moment it threatened to endanger the rigging. 
It was extinguished, however, by a few buckets of water, without 
alarm to any one. It would be difficult for fire to make much 
headway, for hose are laid fore and aft on deck ready for 
instant use, and not even a segar is permitted below the main- 
deck. 

" rom o'clock. 

" Night's candles begin to burn out, and the twilight gray in her 
sober livery to mark the footsteps of the approaching dawn. The 
heavy dew of the night, mingling with the cinders from the smoke 
stacks, has converted the deck into a huge mud puddle, and the 
faces of unconscious sleepers are black and sticky with the dirty 
damp. Hats, coats and garments in a dilapidated condition are 
scattered around, and the scene is one that Hogarth might well 
have immortalised, 

" By six o'clock the sleepers are nearly all up, but a sorrier 
looking set of ' human forms divine ' our eyes never rested upon. 
Mad, tired, stiff, sleepy, dirty and sticky, with hair and eyes full 
of cinders, they get off their individual mattresses like so many 
fretful porcupines. And now another chapter of the mismanage- 
ment is developed. There is neither water to wash nor drink. 
Complaints come thick and fast. One man has paid a dollar for a 
basin full ; another gratefully bestowed a quarter for a glass of 
ice water, wliich he barely obtained, while two or three reporters 
came from the nether regions, looking as pale and languid as if 
they had been drawn through a succession of brush fences. They 
say that somebody will have to suffer for it, and if one may judge 



THE GKEAT EASTERN S LOG. 61 

from their manner, their matter, like Jersey lightning, will kill at 
fortj paces. 

"the movement oe the ship. 

" During the night the paddle engines had a pressure on their 
boilers of twenty pounds of steam, and the wheel was revolving 
twelve times per minute. The screw boilers had the same 
pressure, and the screw was revolving thirty times per minute, the 
combined pressure of which was giving the ship a speed of about 
thirteen knots per hour. Every half hour the look-out men might 
have been heard calling from their stations, and at four o'clock 
the heaving of the lead indicated the depth of water to be twenty- 
four fathoms. The ship was then headed westward, and then was 
experienced for the first time the heavy ground swell, which 
made it difficult for one unaccustomed to the deck of a ship to 
maintain his equilibrium, and for ever set at rest the notion, if 
such was ever entertained by any individual on board, that a ship 
can be built large enough to resist the swell of the ocean. 

" The ship arrived off Cape May about seven o'clock, having 
stood so far out to sea during the night as to be delayed a little 
beyond the time when it was expected she would make anchorage. 

"an INDIC4NATI0N MEETING. 

" During the morning an indignation meeting was held on 
board on the quarter deck, in which Mr. William Pilmer, of 
Brooklyn, officiated as Chairman, and Dr. John Howe, of jS'ew 
York, as Secretary. The following resolutions, drawn up on an 
empty stomach and with unwashed faces, were submitted and 
passed with a will : — 

" ' "Whereas, from the previous reputation which the Great 
Eastern and her officers had established in the United States, the 
gentlemen and ladies who embarked on the excursion to Cape 
May, expected, and had a right to expect, decent accommodation 
and proper attention ; and as it had been announced that she was 
capable of carrying an almost fabulous number of passengers, and 
affording them proper attention and accommodations ; and 

" ' Whereas, we, the passengers on this excursion to Cape May, 
have been grievously disappointed in every expectation; therefore, 

" ' Eesolved, That we, the passengers to Cape May, have beeu 
not only disappointed, but swindled ; that there was no water to 
wash with, no towels to wipe with, and no berths provided, and 
many ladies were obliged to sleep in the cabins ; that there was 
not a glass of water to quench their thirst, and that the whole 
arrangements were contemptible and disgraceful. 

" ' Kesolved, also, That we will advise our friends who propose 



62 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

to go to Norfolk and Annapolis in tlie Great Eastern to stay at 
home for fear of similar treatment. 

" ' Eesolved, That these resolutions be published in tlie 
"Herald," " Tribune" and "Times." 

" ' Signed by J. C. Perry, Brooklyn; David Sandford, Amster- 
dam ; H. S, Decker, Eeuben Burkhalter, New York : Alexander 
Matheson, Ogsdenburgb, N. T. ; Abraham Khlos, Malone, 
N. T. ; Sidney AY. Hopkins, J. J. Eichards, 'New York ; John 
Brush, Pater'son, N. J. ; A. Eeckless, Eedbank, N. J. ; E. C. 
Eussel, W. S. Baker, J. L. Jewett, New York ; John Howe, 
M.D., and fifty others.' 

"It is proper to add in this connection that neither of the 
executive officers of the ship, from Captain Hall down, had anything 
to do with this mismanagement complained of, except in giving 
play to a laudable spirit to right, as far as lay in their power, a 
most perceptible wrong. Messrs. Machin, Davies, Smythe, Wal- 
lace, Wood, Gary and others, made every effort to accommodate 
the dissatisfied and unprovided passengers, and most of the night 
was spent by these gentlemen in going from place to place, routing 
out intruders, and securing berths for those to whom they right- 
fully belonged. Ladies were accommodated as far as possible ; 
but many were forced to lie in the saloons and on the decks. 

" The "directors, Messrs. Gooch and Yates, and Mr. Bold, gave 
up their state-rooms, and slept themselves on the floor, manifesting 
in every possible way a desire to render every one comfortable, 
and correct the confusion which had resulted from the want of 
proper experience. 

" Had the eating arrangements been of the right character, and 
Mr. C — done his duty eff'ectually, the excursionists would not have 
said a word about the sleeping department ; but to be doubly in- 
convenienced was more than human nature could bear without 
reaction, and hence the meeting and resolutions. A man's 
stomach sometimes requires the most careful handling. 

" OFF CAPE MAT. 

" The Great Eastern lies about six miles from the shore, and it 
has been ascertained that we have run nearly fifty miles out of the 
way — at least such is the report. The programme advertised is 
to take the excursionists on board to the beach free of charge, 
and bring them back, a steamer being provided for the purpose. 
About half-past nine said steamer came alongside, and some 
seventy of us, who pushed through the throng waiting at ^ the 
gaugway for a similar opportunity, at the risk of neck and limb, 
leaped on board. 

"Most of these seventy went to Philadelphia from the Cape, pre- 



THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 63 

ferring to go home by that route than to trust to the exigencies of 
another night on the ship, and no doubt numbers of others will 
do likewise. 

" On shore the greatest excitement appears to prevail. 
' " The beach is thronged with spectators ; the two platforms 
extending out into the channel along which the steamers run to 
land passengers are also crowded ; while up the road, as far as the 
eye can reach, the clouds of dust that rise in the air and sweep off 
to the eastward, mark a steady increase. Vehicles of every kind 
and condition incident to Jersey plantations, and born of Jersey 
ingenuity, are tied along the fences, gathered in clusters, or are 
moving along upon the beach. We hire one of these, with a 
party, at a quarter each, and ride ' up town,' or rather to the 
village — a distance of two miles. On the road the string of 
carriages is like a procession. In the village we find everything 
capable of holding humanity crowded to the eaves. Strangers 
and country people have been pouring in for the last twenty-four 
hours, and for ordinary mortals it is a matter of impossibility to 
eat or sleep. 

" By invitation of Messrs. Laird and Woolman, however, of the 
Columbia House — the largest on Cape Island — we proceed there 
to secure the comfort denied us elsewhere. Thanks to the kind- 
ness of these gentlemen, we are afforded every facility for writing 
— a very important feature to us by the way — while a single meal 
brings out in striking contrast the wretched fare to which we have 
been subjected. 

" As the day advanced quite a large number of the New York 
excursionists were added to our company, the principal object 
being the enjoyment of a good dinner and a glorious bath in the 
surf, which the sandy nature of the atmosphere and the heat of 
the day made a decided luxury. 

" Trom this point, about two miles from the landing, the great 
ship was barely visible, her outlines showing dimly and indistinctly 
on the edge of the horizon, and her masts bearing semblance, in 
the distance, to a diminutive section of a thinly planted hedge 
fence in winter. Opera glasses bring her in closer contact to 
those who are looking from the windows of the hotel, and the same 
curiosity exists, on a smaller scale, which marked her advent in 
the bay of New York. 

"the EXCTTESIONISTS EEOM cape MA.Y. 

" Little occurred during the day on either ship or shore specially 
worthy of notice. The boats J. L. Shrever, Jas. A. AVarner, 
Delaware, Balloon, and a number of others whose names do not 
occur to mind, came from Philadelphia, and other points on the 



64 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 

bay, with passengers, and landed tliem upon the ship. The entire 
number of visitors was between four and five thousand. The idea 
had been extensively circulated among them, however, that the 
Great Eastern would not arrive at Cape May, owing to an acci- 
dent which, it was telegraphed on Monday evening, had occurred 
on board while lying in the bay. This, several of the excursionists 
said, had its eflect in raising a doubt, which resulted in the com- 
paratively small number of visitors present. About one hundred 
persons availed themselves of the opportunity to visit New York 
in the big ship, the fare from Cape May being placed at five dollars. 
Numerous tickets were sold among the crowd on the wharf by 
the New Yorkers, to whom I have referred as being thoroughly 
disgusted. These went ofi" at prices ranging from two to four 
dollars, and one individual was so impregnated wdth the feeling, 
that he gave his ticket away for a ten cent, piece with a hole in 
it, which he says he shall put a string through to preserve as a 
souvenir. 

" Great difficulty was experienced in getting people on board the 
Great Eastern from the steamers, because of the long ground 
swell that prevailed. The side stairways were crushed almost 
beyond redemption by the steamers alongside surgiog against 
them, and the leaping and dodging of those who went on board, to 
get on the gangway, was in some instances perilous in the extreme. 
The best of nature animated the crowd, however, and barring a 
little impatience on the part of each one to get ahead of his 
neighbour, nothing threw a shadow over anybody's heart. 

"a MAI7 OTEREOAED. 

" On one of these occasions, just previous to the arrival of the 
James A. Warner, a man was seen to plunge from the wheelhouse 
in the water below. Eor a moment breath was suspended at the 
startling incident, but on rushing to the side the individual was 
discovered striking out for the wheel, in a cool and reckless manner, 
and order was restored. It is not known whether the man fell or 
jumped ; but, from his manner, it is supposed that he made a leap 
merely for the purpose of lionising himself. 

" THE EETIJEN. 

" At half-past six the people on the Great Eastern had the satis- 
faction of hearing the order given to get under weigh, and the 
operation of raising the anchor at once became an interesting 
relief to the monotony of the day. 

"At eight o'clock we were well under way, bowling along at the 
rate of thirteen knots an hour. Salutes were exchanged with the 
steamship State of Georgia, bound outward ; and as both vessels 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 65 

were travelling for a short time ia one direction the opportunity 
was afforded of comparing the superior speed of the Great 
Eastern, which ran away from her competitor with as much ease 
as a man would outwalk a child. 

" Supper was a little improved. The waiters have had a talking 
to, and Mr. C — has hkewise received admonitions of a storm about 
his ears, which have added an additional wrinkle to his corrugated 
brow. An instance occurred during the day which shows the root 
of the trouble, and how little the management of the ship have 
been able to control the operations of this ' autocrat of the dinner 
table.' 

" Some of the directors desired to dine at a certain hour with a 
small party of friends. The meal was accordingly ordered in the 
usual way, Mr. C — being the caterer; but, notwithstanding, two 
liours and a half elapsed before they succeeded in effecting their 
object. Then it was only done through the perseverance of one 
of the directors, who, with his own dignified hands, went and 
helped himself. 

" It will be seen, therefore, that these gentlemen are not entirely 
to blame for all the deficiencies experienced, and that when they 
cannot help themselves it is impossible for them to help others. 

" AT NIGHT. 

" The night was lovely. Dod worth's Band set the dancers in 
motion, and for two or three hours the scene by moonliglit was as 
delightful as one could wish. Many people, including several 
ladies, were compelled to lay out on the deck again, and as the air 
was cool, the breeze fresh, and plenty of cinders blew about, their 
position was anything but comfortable. More quiet prevailed, 
however, than last night. The jokers are fagged out, and are 
sleeping as soundly as their more serious neighbours. 

" Below, early in the evening, the saloons assumed more of the 
form of a family circle. Parties were gathered in knots telling 
stories or indulging in reminiscences of the trip, strolling up and 
down the spacious rooms, examining the long row of a dozen or 
more photographic groups of the officers of the ship presented to 
the company by Gurney, or engaged in a quiet game of cards. 
By eleven o'clock, excepting a party of singers astern on deck, all 
was quiet ; and by twelve ' God Save the Queen ' and the ' Star 
Spangled Banner' closed the performances of these midnight 
minstrels. Most of the reporters were to-night accommodated 
with berths, and are in better humour than they have been. 

" Wednesday Mokning, Aug. 1. 
" We are cutting the waters of the bay at the rate of tweke 



M THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 

knots an hour. The chief engineer tells me that during the niglit 
the ship made fifteen. I learn, also, from one of the officers, that 
she came near running down a large schooner, and that it was only 
by good luck, after the ship had stopped and backed water, that a 
collision was prevented. 

" A number of persons from Philadelphia, who came on board 
at Cape May, were brought away by accident and turned up this 
morning. They express themselves as highly delighted. 

" Breakfast was but a repetition of the meals already described. 
Mr. Minturn, jun., a son of one of the consignees, told me that he 
had paid a dime for a glass of water and two shillings for his 
mattress, so that no favouritism was complained of by him at 
least. 

" The day is so fair and beautiful, however, that there is little 
disposition on the part of any one to grumble, and every one looks 
back upon the trip to Cape May as one on -which they have 
enjoyed a share of fun among the changeful vicissitudes of 
the occasion sufficient to compensate them for all the misery 
experienced. 

" Several steamers have come out to m.eet us bound off with 
excursionists, and, on a small scale, we have a repetition of the 
scene of Monday. Salutes are exchanged with the revenue cutter 
and one or two other craft, and at about ten o'clock anchor is 
dropped off the foot of Christopher Street, where the Great 
Eastern will rest until this afternoon at five o'clock, when she 
starts on her trip to the South. 

" THE OPEEATION OF THE ENGINES. 

" The following is a statement received from Mr. McLennan, 
chief engineer : — 

" ' The engines, both screw and paddle, worked admirably. No 
accident of any kind occurred to them. On the trip to Cape May 
the paddle engines made 9873 revolutions — the indicator of the 
screw not working. Thus the distance travelled was about 166i 
miles. The knots averaged about twelve per hour, or of statute 
miles between twelve and thirteen. On the return home the 
paddle engines made 8849 revolutions — thus traveUing, as will be 
seen, some twenty miles less than in going out.' 

*' AN INCOREECT IMPEESSION. 

" The statement has been generally made through the city that 
the passengers on board the Great Eastern were supplied with 
their fare by Mr. Stetson, of the Astor House. As such a suppo- 
sition is calculated to injure the reputation and business of any 
person with w^hom it is connected, after the occurrences recorded 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 67 

on the above excursion, it is desirable that the public should know 
that the gentleman above referred to had nothing whatever to do 
with the matter." 



Of course, in the above account, allowance must (as sailors say 
of a new rope) be made for stretching. The mountain has been 
in labour to bring forth a mouse. As far as the directors of the 
great ship are concerned, all right-thinking persons will at once 
acquit them of blame, for of course their province did not lie in 
feeding a hungry mob ; but many of them were out for a two days' 
spree, and ready to have a row about anything, or at anybody's 
expense. As to our provider, some little mismanagement may 
lie at his door ; but much of his trouble, and the cause of many 
empty stomachs, lay with the excursionists themselves, for I saw 
much food, on its way to a table at which sat a hungry group in 
joyous anticipation of a good feed, torn by main force from the 
hands of the waiters who were carrying it, such brutish conduct 
of course making it impossible to give any degree of satisfaction 
to the many, who thus suffered from the inexcusable conduct of the 
few. As to the black waiters, they were a set of incorrigible black- 
guards, and no doubt practised the extortions complained of to its 
fullest extent, and many were without doubt insolent and inatten- 
tive. I saw several myself in a state of intoxication when their 
services were most required ; but every endeavour was made by 
parties in authority to allay the rising bile of our friends : that we 
did not succeed is partly owing to their desire to be all served at 
once, and partly because, considering themselves as having cause 
for grievance, they were determined not to be satisfied. But 
enough has been said on this unpleasant subject. Doubtless, had 
the Grreat Eastern been an American ship, we should have heard 
less about such a paltry grievance as the discomfort of an excursion 
party ; however, it taught the Americans one thing, that, in spite 
of all their talk to the contrary, John Bull can build a steamer, 
and sail her too. They are evidently dissatisfied with us for 
beating them on their most tender point (ship-building); there- 
fore, having been the innocent means of hurting their feelings, we 
can forgive them for being riled. 

I find it necessary to retrace my steps to say a few words about 
this Cape May, that has thus suddenly achieved notoriety from 
the visit of the Great Eastern. It is situated at the extreme 
southern point of New Jersey, where the Delaware Bay joins the 
sea ; it is famous as a fashionable summer resort, possessing good 
bathing and hotel accommodation, and is distant from Philadelphia 
some 100 miles. Some five or six thousand persons from that 

V 2 



68 THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 

city arrived by excursion steamers during our stay, to have a look 
at John Bull's big boat, as they call her ; and what with them, 
and our excursionists from New York, the scene of confusion the 
decks of the Great Eastern presented was something terrible, and 
right glad were we when, after an immensity of trouble, and a 
perfect Babel of confusion and noise, we got rid of all strangers, 
lifted once more our ponderous anchor from its bed, and steamed 
away at the rate of seventeen miles per hour from Cape May. A 
few Philadelphians availed themselves of the opportunity presented 
them to take a trip to New York, at the rate of five dollars per 
head. 

I need scarcely say we were delighted when the ship was once 
more anchored at New York (9.30 a.m. August 1), and the last 
excursionist, cursing as he went, had disappeared over the side. 
The quiet that now reigned on board was an enjoyment indeed to 
us, who for two-and-a-half days had been in a perfect uproar; 
we availed ourselves with right good will of the few hours given 
us to clean the ship, and by evening we were once more clean and 
decent. The heaps of broken furniture, and the damaged state of 
our beautiful saloons, bore striking testimony to the gentlemanly 
conduct of our late badly treated and much aggrieved fellow- 
travellers. To-morrow we sail for Hampton E^oads, and thence to 
Annapolis, a present of 1000 tons of coal being the inducement 
to visit the latter place. 

Thursday J August 2nd. — Fine weather ; the papers are full of 
letters from our late excursionists, abusing in round terms ship, 
directors, and officers, for nothing in particular but everything in 
general. Not supplying them with a suificiency of ice-water 
appears the principal grievance : truly something cooling would 
have done them good ; however, it is to be hoped they will all cool 
down in good time. They have now an opportunity of which they 
have been long desirous, and right good use do they make of it, 
to abuse the Great Eastern and all thereunto belonging. When 
I speak of abuse, I allude to the numerous minor publications 
of New York, which abound in most scurrilous articles ; use being 
made of language that proves one thing, and one thing only, that 
the writers are most consummate blackguards. AVe were re- 
quested, as officers of the ship, to answer some of these articles, 
which we did with our compliments to the would-be editors, " that 
we, as the boy did when the ass kicked him, took it from whence 
it came." Messrs. Phillips and Nash of the " New York Illustrated 
News," De Eontaine of the "Herald," Osbon of the "World," 
and others, have ever treated us with kindness and consideration, 
and kept the papers with which they are connected free from such 
malicious abuse as fills the dirty columns of such trash as "H *s 



THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 69 

Weekly," the " C r," &c. AYeeds such as these should have 

no place among the blooraing flowers of the New York press : 
they should be plucked up and cast into the fire. 

Lord Lyons, the British ambassador, honoured us with a visit 
this morning, and was received by Captain Hall and the officers 
of the ship. Captain Hall conducted his distinguished guest over 
all parts of this magnificent vessel ; after a stay of about two hours 
we landed his lordship in one of our boats, much pleased with his 
visit. 5 p.m. — Fine weather : commenced shortening-in cable. We 
have on board 105 passengers, at the low charge of six dollars for 
the trip to Hampton Eoads, and eight dollars to Annapolis, ex- 
clusive of provisions. At 6.10 p.m., the ship's head being the 
right way, up anchor and steamed leisurely down the Bay. On 
heaving our eight-ton anchor up to the bow, found that it was 
badly broken in two places in the shank (near the stock): con- 
demned it as unfit for further use. This run down the Bay 
presents a striking contrast to the last ; the only vessel that noticed 
us was the Cunard steamer, Asia, which ship fired a gun and 
dipped her colours as we passed, the Grreat Eastern returning the 
salute by lowering her ensign and firing four guns. Not one 
steamer was there to accompany us ; no crowds of people lining 
the shores to see us pass : in fact no more notice was taken of the 
Great Eastern than of any ordinary vessel, — something quite novel 
in the history of the big ship. Our last excursion has evidently 
riled the Yankees, and they'll no more of us. Then, for a short 
time, good-bye sweet city of fires and pistol practice, and away 
to seek a welcome from our friends of the south. At 8.10 p.m. 
crossed the bar, and steamed away gaily, with fine weather 
and smooth sea. Till late at night all was jollity and hilarity ; 
dancing was kept up with great spirit, a vocal and instrumental 
concert in the saloon adding to the general good humour pre- 
vailing. By midnight the decks were clear, and all but the watch 
enjoying sweet repose. The engines as usual were in excellent 
working order, and the Great Eastern was cleaving her way 
through the water at a speed of seventeen miles an hour during the 
whole night. 

Friday, August 3rd, dawned on us with fine weather, light 
winds, and smooth sea ; our passengers in high good humour with 
the ship, the treatment and accommodation tiiey received, and 
expressing in the warmest terms their admiration at the arrange- 
ments and capabilities of this wondrous vessel. 3 p.m., observed 
the land on the port bow, and at 6.15 p.m. anchored in Hampton 
Eoads, having steamed from New York, a distance of 310 miles, 
in 23 hours. On anchoring we fired four guns to announce our 
arrival, after which the Fort honoured us with a salute of 11 guns, 



70 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

whicTi we immediately returned bj hoisting the American ensign 
and saluting it with 13 guns. 

Before arriving, the passengers held a meeting in the saloon 
and drew up a prettily worded letter of thanks, which they pre- 
sented to our worthy commander, expressing themselves highly 
pleased with their comfortable passage and the courtesy that had 
been extended to them by him and the officers of the ship : a 
strange contrast this to the indignation meeting of our last trip. 
Some three or four small steamers, and a dozen or two sailing craft, 
freighted with the sight-loving public, were awaiting our arrival iu 
the bay, and welcouied us with hearty cheers, and " God save the 
Queen " from the bands, our musicians pkyiug " Hail Columbia," 
&c. The point off which we are anchored bears the name of Old 
Point Comfort. Nearly in the centre of the bay a large fort is in 
course of construction, on an artificial island ; and on Point 
Comfort, commanding the roads, is situated the largest fort in 
America. There is also a naval hospital here. 

The roads, in which the U. S. frigate, Brooklyn, and several 
small vessels were anchored, affords no shelter from easterly 
winds. There is but one hotel here, and but few other buildings. 
Hampton is famous only as a resort for parties of pleasure, inva- 
lids, and those seeking an invigorating air ; the fishing is also very 
good. The James's river is navigable at a depth of twelve feet as 
far as Richmond (the capital of Virginia), 140 miles from Hamp- 
ton. The town of Norfolk is eight miles distant, standing on the 
banks of the Elizabeth river, which is navigable for small steamers. 
We had no sooner anchored than a deputation of gentlemen from 
Norfolk came on board, inviting the captain and officers on shore 
to partake of Virginian hospitality ; which invitation was declined 
with thanks ; our stay here being too short to admit of its accept- 
ance. 

Saturday, 4tth. — Pine, but very warm. About 9 a.m. visitors by 
steamers and boats of all kinds from E-ichmond and Norfolk were 
fast arriving, and by noon some thousands of gaily-dressed people 
of both sexes stood for the first time on the decks of the Great 
Eastern. Among those privately admitted were the Secretary of 
War, the Secretary of the Interior, and several Naval officers. On 
leaving we honoured the first-named gentleman with a salute of 
fourteen guns, which, as an exercise of common politeness, ought 
to have been answered by the frigate Brooklyn ; but the Americans 
had none of that " commodity " on stock, or rather to waste on a 
" Britisher." The ship was all the afternoon pretty well filled 
with visitors, but at 5 p.m. there was a sensible decrease in their 
number. We had several slaves on board during the day, and they 
appeared well clad, well fed, and clean. I did not enter into con- 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 71 

versation Avith them for fear of giving offence to their owners ; for 
the American slaveholders are well acquainted with our ideas on 
the sla\'ery question, and therefore would rather we should leave 
their " Niggers " alone. It is very amusing to hear the Americans 
down South abusing their brothers of the North, and vice versa, 
concerning the " Slavery question." The visitors numbered to-day 
4020. 

Two pilots for Annapolis came on board Sunday the ^th, 
at 4 A.M. Commenced heaving in cable at 5 a.m. The steamers 
came alongside with a few passengers for Annapolis at the low 
rate of 3 dollars per head. 6 a.m., our eight tons of ii'on being 
once more at the bow, steamed out of the bay ; at 7, stopped and 
discharged the Hampton Eoads' pilot ; and at 8, we were off Cape 
Henry, with fine weather and smooth sea, ship steaming gallantly 
ahead at the rate of seventeen miles per hour. We are now in 
the waters of the famous Chesapeake Bay, which extends as far as 
Baltimore, about 190 miles. On our way we passed several ves- 
sels, the crews of which lustily cheered us as we steamed by ; two 
steamers came down from Baltimore crowded with people to meet 
us, and, as the advertisement had it, to accompany us up to our 
anchorage ; they had the presumption to try their speed with us, 
but by the time we anchored a faint line of smoke on the horizon 
marked their " whereabouts." We anchored at 5 p.m. in seven 
fathoms water, six miles from Annapolis, in the state of Maryland. 
The other side of the bay is about ten miles distance, so that we 
are anchored nearly in the middle, there not being sufficient water 
to allow us to approach nearer the town. Prom Cape Henry, 
which we passed at 8 a.m. to our anchorage, is 155 miles, the whole 
distance being steamed in nine hours, at over seventeen miles per 
hour. The rivers Potomac, Susquehanna, and others, find their 
outlets in this beautiful bay. Baltimore is distant about forty 
miles, and approached from the head of the bay by the Patapsco 
river. This day has been exceedingly warm, the night close and 
sultry, with much forked lightning. 

Monday, Gth. — Ship opened to visitors. The gift of coal, which 
induced the authorities to send the ship here, being partly the 
offering of a company owning what is called the Bay line of 
steamers, the right of conveying passengers to the ship is granted 
to their vessels, to the exclusion of others. These boats run 
during the da}^, at intervals of about three hours, from six in 
the morning till six in the evening. The visitors to-day numbered 
only 2500 ; but we shall doubtless have an increase. The charge 
for a return ticket from Baltimore is one dollar for the steamer 
and half-a-dollar for admittance on board the Great Eastern. 
The railway between Baltimore and Annapolis is also running 



72 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

several excursion trains daily, a steamer being employed by them 
to take visitors from the trains to the ship. This railway also 
runs to Washington, the political capital of the United States, 
and we shall no doubt have many visitors from there and other 
towns on the road. The weather during the day has been most 
oppressively warm, scarcely a breath of air stirring. Six vessels 
containing coals are alongside, and busily discharging, but as the 
big ship takes in her coal at large side ports near the water, it 
causes but little annoyance. 

On the ^th, the weather was still fine, but the heat intense. 
The coaling is going on but slowly, as the men do not appear in 
working humour, and not particularly pleased at working in the 
heat of a tropical sun. The steamers from Baltimore and Anna- 
polis came alongside to-day, well filled with visitors of all classes, 
— and I may well say " all classes," for there were ladies and 
gentlemen, pickpockets and rowdy boys, and blacklegs, each party 
well represented. The latter mentioned blackguards were the 
cause of much annoyance and trouble to us during the whole time 
of our stay; assaults were constantly going on. Only to-day a 
mob gathered round the bar, making a great noise, and being 
very properly refused drink, the ringleader knocked down one of 
the officers of the civil department, and the whole then pitched 
into the waiters in the saloon. This being a free country, these 
blackguards of course made use of their boots and teeth. How- 
ever, the tables were soon turned ; for ^ome of our men, hearing 
what was going on, fought their way to the field of battle, and 
Eritish blood being spilt, all that remained in the bodies of the 
pugilists was in a state of ferment, and the consequence was 
that an indiscriminate fight took place, and these scum of the 
American Backwoods received so many striking proofs of the 
necessity of a retreat that they were forced — some of them Bowie 
knife in hand — to make what Jack calls a "stern-board;" i.e., 
clear out with their faces to the enemy, or rather what could be 
seen of their faces, for I feel satisfied that for many days some of 
them were quite safe from arrest by the police on any indi- 
vidual charge, so complete was their disguise. One of the 
blackguards, more ferocious than the rest, we put, hands and legs, 
in irons, much to the disgust of himself and friends. The ring- 
leader of the mob, after this melee, grossly insulted an American 
lady in the presence of her husband, who at the time said nothing, 
but landed in the steamer with his wife's insulter, and when on 
the wharf took a revolver out of his pocket and shot him dead. 
This happened in the presence of several of our men, and much 
to their horror ; but these summary acts of vengeance are common 
in this country. 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 73 

At 6 P.M., Messrs. Davies and Wood, two of my brother officers, 
and myself, kindly accompanied and franked by our good friend 
Kasb, of the "New York Illustrated News," and taking our band 
with us, left for Annapolis by the steamer, proceeding from thence 
to Baltimore by a train crowded to excess. An instance of the 
free-aud-easj style of these people was shown by many of them 
climbing to the top of the engine-tender, some sitting on the 
wood with their legs haoging over the sides, at the imminent risk 
of being thrown down from the jolting of the carriage and killed. 
I, in my innocence, ventured a remark as to the danger of such a 
proceeding, receiving as an answer from the conductor, " I guess 
if they get chawed up 'taint no fault of ours." Owing to the 
crowded state of the train, we did not arrive at Baltimore till 
1(9 P.M. On reaching the house of our kind friend Mr. Wm. E. 
Bartlett, we mustered our band outside, and made the streets 
echo with " The Star-Spangled Banner." As may be expected, 
we were not long in gaining admission, and found a snug bachelor 
party assembled to meet us, the salute of honour being imitated 
in a most agreeable manner to us thirsty souls by the popping of 
champagne corks. A good supper was on the table, consisting 
principally of crabs, for which this place is famous : there were 
crabs devilled (the meat being taken out of the shell to undergo 
this operation, and afterwards returned), soft crabs fried in cream, 
ditto fried in their natural state, and many others too numerous 
to mention. These crabs are considered a delicacy ; they are 
eaten shells and all, and are of about the same consistency as a 
firm jelly. Being very hungry, we made sad havoc among the 
shell-fish, our appetites assisted by the reckless manner in which 
our friend Bartlett fired away with his champagne battery. After 
supper, and a dessert, consisting of the most luscious peaches, &c. 
the band treated us to some excellent music. Towards midnight we 
were joined by Marshal Kain (the head of the Baltimore police), and 
one or two other gentlemen. The evening passed as pleasantly as the 
kindness of our worthy host and his friends could make it, and at 
2 A.M., after winding up like true Britons by singing " God Save 
the Queen " (the toast, " Her Majesty," having been proposed in 
a neat and complimentary speech by the Marshal, and responded 
to in true English style with nine times nine and a hearty " God 
bless her!"), we sallied forth, accompanied by all hands, to the 
Maltby House Hotel, and at about 3 managed to get to bed, 
merely to be, as far as I was concerned, the victim of some 
hundreds of bloodthirsty mosquitos. At 8, rose and dressed, 
having borne my inflictions with anything but quiet resignation, 
breakfasted, and paid a visit to the terminus of the Baltimore and 
Ohio Kaiiway, the finest buildiug of the sort I have yet seen iu 



74i THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

this country. We were kindly received by Mr. Woodside and 
other officials, and by them conducted to the dome, from whence, 
at an elevation of 150 feet, we enjoyed a fine panoramic view of 
the city. One great peculiarity that strikes the eye is, the long 
streets of houses, all of red brick ; in fact there appears to be 
hardly any other material used for house-building. The public 
buildings generally are stone or marble. Baltimore, iu the state 
of Maryland, is on-e of the four great eastern cities with a popu- 
lation of 250,000. 

The AVashington monument is a very fine piece of work- 
manship, the chief amongst its kind in the United States ; its 
base is 50 feet square and 20 feet high, supporting a Doric shaft 
177 feet in height, which is surmounted by a colossal statue of 
"Washington 16 feet high. It is built of brick, cased with white « 
marble, and cost 40,000Z. Battle Monument, also of white 
marble, 52 feet in height, was erected to the memory of those 
who fell defending the city in September, 1814. Many of the 
public buildings are large and elegant structures, particularly the 
Exchange, which has colonnades of six Ionic columns on its east 
and west sides, the shafts of which are single blocks of fine 
Italian marble of admirable workmanship. The churches, bene- 
volent and literary institutions, &c., are generally well built, and 
many of them imposing structures. The Catholic cathedral 
boasts of the largest organ in the United States, having 6000 
pipes and 36 stops ; it is ornamented with two excellent paintings 
— viz., the " Descent from the Cross," and " St. Louis burying 
his Officers and Soldiers before Tunis." This town is famous for 
the swift class of vessels here built, and known as " Baltimore 
clippers." Having expressed a desire to inspect the celebrated 
cigar steamer, v\'e were favoured by the originator and builder, 
Mr. AVinan, with a letter to Captain Yaughan, requesting him 
to afford us every information concerning this extraordinary 
vessel. After a drive of half an hour, m'c alighted at Mr. AV.'s 
private yard, and stepped on board. We were kindly received 
and shown through the vessel by the captain and Mr. AVinan, jun. 
Mr. AVinan, sen., was formerly an engineer by profession, and is 
possessed of immense wealth, the perfection of his novel idea 
being amusement for him. The term "submarine" would also 
well apply to this vessel, for she is constructed to go either 
through the water or on its surface ; the idea being, that 
instead of, like an ordinary vessel, mounting over a sea, she 
will pierce her way through it. She is formed like a cigar, 
being hollow, and pointed at each end, for the purpose of 
offering as small an amount of surface as possible to the 
assaults of the waves. She measures about 300 tons, is 235 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 75 

feet long, works to 350 horse-power, and carries 200 tons of 
iuel ; her diameter is 16 feet in the centre ; the deck, from 
the form of the vessel, is confined to the hreadth of a few feet 
and about half her length, with a substantial hand-rail to save 
persons from slipping overboard. She is entirely iron, and is 
propelled by a wheel placed in her centre, set with twelve pro- 
peller blades, which traverse entirely round the outside ; and to 
allow the connection of this wheel with the engines, the vessel is 
divided in two, having sufficient space for the machinery, but so 
strongly secured together as to make this particular part of the 
ship the strongest. The wheel is so covered in as to prevent any 
water going below. She has a rudder at each end, 40 feet from 
the extremes, in the shape of a flat square shovel, projecting 
entirely clear of her bottom, and steering her with the smallest 
movement. There is an anchor at each end, formed like a 
sugar-loaf, large end down, intended to hold by its weight alone; 
each is hove up by a winch into a recess formed in the ship's 
bottom to receive it, and made of corresponding size and shape, 
so that when the anchors are up they are so fitted in the bottom 
that no part projects. Near the centre a small iron tower rises 
to the height of 15 feet, and is provided with strong glass, resem- 
bling ships' scuttles, through which the look-out can see a-head 
when the whole of the hull is immersed. I dare say some day we 
may hear of her making a successful trip across the Atlantic. 
Mr. Winan informed me that, to test her qualities, he anchored 
oflf Cape Henry till a gale of wind set in, and then steamed out 
against it, making 14 miles per hour, with scarcely any motion. 
To clean the bottom of this sea snake, it is only necessary to pass 
two chains round her, taking them to winches on shore, and thus 
to roll her over as you might a barrel. 

During the afternoon we paid a visit to the immense establish- 
ment of Messrs- Gail and Ax, the largest tobacco factory in the 
States. By the courtesy of the proprietors, we were enabled to 
witness the whole process of tobacco, cigar, and snuff" manu- 
facture : that of cigars is carried on by hand ; that of cutting 
tobacco and pounding snuflP, by steam machinery. All the men 
employed in this extensive establish aient (and 1 believe some of the 
women) were smoking at their work ; and it struck me that from 
such inveterate smokers (constantly inhaling not only the smoke 
of tobacco, but tobacco itself, in the shape of dust) that a valuable 
opinion might be obtained of the efl^ect of smoking on the human 
system. All the employes have permission to smoke as much as 
they please on the premises, but not to carry tobacco or cigars 
away. Some of them avail themselves of this, and smoke without 
ceasing the whole day through. One of these men, whose first 



76 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

waking thought in the morning was for his pipe, and who fre- 
quently fiuished the day by going to sleep with it in his mouth, 
died some few niontlis back at the age of eighty-six, after being many 
years in the establishment. The general opinion of the pro- 
prietors and others able to give one is, that the use of tobacco is 
not injurious. We enjoyed another fine view of the city from the 
top of this splendid edifice. A violent thunder-storm, with heavy 
raiii and vivid lightning, broke over the town, lasting for half an 
hour, cooling the heated atmosphere, and rendering the evening 
delightfully pleasant. 

At 6.30 P.M. started for the Great Eastern in one of the 
steamers returning for excursionists left on board. I think I 
never in the East or West Indies found the heat greater or more 
unbearable than it has been the last day or two. 

Arrived on board soon after 8 p.m., and found 1700 excursionists 
awaiting the steamer's arrival; and such a squeezing and fighting 
to get on board, such yelling and screeching; it really was 
wonderful how this immense throng transferred itself from one 
vessel to the other in safety. All the ship's officers were in attend- 
ance, and most indefatigable in their exertions to render service, 
especially to the ladies ; they being treated with but little 
civility by an American crowd. After one or two cases of fainting, 
a few torn coats, scratched faces, &c., the majority got on board 
the small steamer in safety ; some few of tlie more timid preferred 
to remain on board the " big ship " all night. These were pro- 
vided with sleeping accommodation, and made as comfortable as 
circumstances permitted. President Buchanan has notified his 
intention to visit the ship to-morrow. 

Coaling ship goes on night and day, with not very favourable 
results, the coal vessels being sometimes obliged to sheer off to 
an anchor to avoid swamping alongside. 

Thursday, 9tL — Light fog and cloudy in the early morning ; 
clearing away as the sun gained power, the latter making its 
appearance with every indication of a piping-hot day, which it 
turned out to be. Visitors commenced flocking on board in 
great numbers from 8 a.m., and the different parts of the ship 
were soon filled with a well-dressed multitude, amongst whom was 
a goodly sprinkle of ladies, many of them fine-looking women, 
and a few positively handsome, all gathered together to welcome 
the President. At 10.30 a.m. the presidential party were 
observed approaching (in the small revenue steamer, Anacosta), 
and were soon alongside, welcomed by twenty-one guns from 
the Great Eastern. Our commander and his ofiicers were in 
attendance at the gangway to receive the distinguished visitors, 
and amidst the hearty cheers of the assembled thousands, the 



THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 77 

bands playing "Yankee Doodle," President Buchanan stepped on 
board the Great Eastern. He was accompanied by his niece, Miss 
Harriett Lane, some few members of the Senate, &c., some naval 
officers, and a large party of ladies and gentlemen. We (the 
officers) had all the honour of a separate introduction to the 
President, each being received with a cordial grasp of the hand, 
and a hearty " Glad to see you, Sir." 

Mr. Buchanan is a venerable-looking gentleman, perfectly 
white headed, and over six feet in height, wearing the ordinary 
American dress and straw-hat, without the slightest distinction. 
Miss Lane, the niece of the President, is about the middle height, 
slightly inclined to embonpoint, very lady-like in her manner, 
about twenty-eight years of age, and decidedly good looking : for 
the benefit of our lady readers we will say, she was dressed in 
(what I considered) decided good taste— plain, neat, and good 
(my knowledge of millinery is far too limited to allow me to 
attempt details). After a minute inspection of the ship, the 
distinguished party were entertained by Captain Hall and the 
directors at a sumptuous dejeuner, served in the ladies' saloon. 
After a stay of two hours, Mr. Buchanan and suite left the ship, 
again shaking hands with the commander and his officers, expres- 
sing in warm terms the pleasure he had received from his visit. 

Before leaving, Mr. Buchanan was presented with several little 
souvenirs of the great ship, with which he appeared much pleased. 
After the steamer had left our sides, we again saluted with 
21 guns, which were returned by the Anacosta. It was rather 
strange for an Englishman to hear (as we did to-day), the head of a 
great nation accosted by the crowd in this style : " Well, Mr. 
President, how d'ye do ? glad to see you ; guess you're looking 
spry," &c. 

The visitors began to thin about 4 p.m., and by 8.30 p.m., the 
last had cleared out. Some of our gentlemen (?) visitors take a 
delight in passing insulting remarks. One to-day, accosted me with 
" Mr. Officer, 1 guess this ship 's a great humbug." " That 's the 
opinion of every fool that 's seen her," replied I. The Yankee 
moved off. 

Friday, lOtli. — Eine weather, ship full of visitors from 9 a.m. ; 
coaling going on, still badly. At 3 p.m. got up steam in the 
auxiliary engines, and hove in forty fathoms of cable. Towards 
evening a bit of a swell rising, all the coal-lighters broke adrift, 
thus finishing our coaling in a most unceremonious manner. We 
should, if possible, have taken another 1600 tons : but not being 
able to do so here, it will be necessary to coal afresh in New 
York. By 7.30 p.m. all visitors out of the ship, awning furled, 
and all ready for sea. Daring the night it blew very hard from 



78 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 

the IST.W., with heavy raio, compelling us to again give the ship 
the cable we had previously hove in. 

Saturday, 11th. — Fresh N.W. wind, with dull cloudy weather 
and rain. At 4 a.m. commenced (with steam and hand power), 
heaving in our enormous bower cable, the anchor not being 
up and secured, owing to the strength of the wind, till 6.50 a.m., 
at w^hich time, under charge of two pilots, we made a clear 
start for New York, with thirty-four passengers at twenty 
dollars, including provisions. After a speedy run down the 
beautiful Bay of the Chesapeake, at 3.50 p.m. stopped off Cape 
Henry to discharge our Annapolis pilots, having made an average 
speed during the run of IQ^ miles per hour. One steamer 
came out from Hampton E-oads full of people to see us, giving us 
a " good-bye." At 4.5 started a-head full speed for New York. 
The night was dull and cloudy, with a strong head-wind and 
occasional showers. 

Sunday, 12th. — Light winds and fine ; the land in sight on port 
beam ; passing a number of coasting vessels. Mustered the ship's 
company at 11.30 a.m., and at 11.50 stopped abreast Sandy 
Hook' light-ship, after averaging a speed of sixteen, miles per hour 
since leaving Cape Henry. Have to wait i,ill three p.m. for high- 
water to cross the bar. Advantage was taken of this opportunity 
to get the ship's head on with known objects on shore to correct 
compasses. Three p.m. set on easy, and at 3.45 crossed the bar 
once more in safety. Steaming up the bay, but ^ew boats came 
out to meet us ; as before, our appearance caused no excitement 
among the New Yorkers. ^Returned salutes from two " Cunard's" 
steamers as we passed, and at 5.45 p.m. anchored near the old 
spot. The next day set in with a gale of wind from the S.E. and 
rain; at eight a.m. commenced taking in coal from barges, it 
being hoisted in by " horse " power. The cost of coal put on board 
is 25s. per ton. Ship opened to visitors, but owing to the incle- 
mency of the weather very few came on board ; between four and 
five p.m. the wind chopped round to the N.W., accompanied by 
heavy rain for several hours. 

Tuesday, 14ith. — Still blowing heavily from the north; owing 
to the unfavourable state of the weather had but few visitors. 
The following extract is from the " Herald" of this date : — 

"The Geeat EASTEEi*r Steamee. 

"the mammoth at her moorings — CURIOSITY OF THE PEOPLE— REFLECTIONS ON 
HER PROSPECTS — TIME OP HER DEPARTURE LAST CHANCE FOR VISITORS, ETC. 

" The Great Eastern steamship has once more returned to our 
harbour, and, as we previously predicted, the interest of the public 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 79 

has died out in the attractions she can supply. We have always 
stood up for the superiority of the Great Eastern over ordinary 
vessels in several respects. As a transport vessel she has no 
equal ; as a steamboat of the first class she stands unparalleled ; 
and as an experiment of the future results of ocean steam naviga- 
tion there can be no doubt but that the ocean monster is aheaf of 
everything else. 

" The Great Eastern has had a favourable time in this country. 
She has cleared thousands of dollars since her arrival, and if she 
should remain here for a few months she will clear many thousands 
more. This is the great theory of the ' big ship.' But, to speak 
the truth, we must say that at the present moment little or no 
interest is exhibited in her. The excursion to Cape May, and the 
frightful provision made for the comfort of the passengers on that 
occasion, were enough to settle the prospects of the best ship of 
the world. We are not here making a note of the history of the 
vessel. iS'obody has ever paid more attention to her appearance 
and her career since her arrival in this country than the ' Herald ' 
has done. But we must say that the managers do not know how 
to ' keep a hotel.' If they did, the Cape May excursion would 
have been a great success, instead of a lamentable failure. 

" As our readers are aware, the Great Eastern is once more in 
New York, and at this moment is lying off Hammond street, in 
the stream. Those who wish to see her had better avail them- 
selves of their only opportunity between to-day and to-morrow. 
In three or four days she leaves for England, and hereafter many 
of our people will regret that they did not tread the deck of the 
greatest maritime structure that ever floated on the seas. The 
officers of the Great Eastern have ever conducted themselves as 
seamen and gentlemen, and the results of the unfortunate trip to 
Cape May should not be taken as a circumstance to injure their 
reputation. They have, as far as they are concerned, fulfilled the 
duty which then devolved upon them. While they remain here 
we hope that they will continue to be as accommodating as they 
have hitherto been ; and if close attention and urbanity can be a 
recommendation to any one, then the officers of the Great Eastern 
are entitled to the consideration of all intelligent Americans. 

" We need not describe the scenes of yesterday, as there was 
little topourtray. The wharves were crovvded, and, as the ship lay 
oft' in the stream she was visited by over a thousand persons. 
People look on this as the last view of the Great Eastern. No 
one expects to see her here again. We all koow that there is not 
sufficient trade between New York and any European port to 
justify the employment of such an immense vessel in the carrying 
trade. It is, therefore, plain that those who do not now visit her 



80 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

will not hereafter have any opportunity of seeing her, except they 
cross the ocean to do so. We may mention that the Great 
Eastern will be open for exhibition for two days longer; and 
certainly there is scarcely a person who has not yet visited her 
that ought not to take this last opportunity of doing so. We 
wish the good ship well, as we always did. Forgetting all the 
contretemps of the management, and attributing them to inex- 
perience, we sincerely hope, as do all Americans, that the good 
ship may once more find a safe haven in the land whence she 
sailed." 



E-ain continued up to midmight. Crew all day employed pre- 
paring ship for her homeward voyage. The weather cleared up 
early, and by four a.m. we had a fine clear morning ; coaling is 
still going on night and day. Being our last day in New York, 
the ship has been better filled with visitors, although nothing like 
a crowd. Captain Guildford, the commander of one of Cunard's 
small steamers, joined to-day as our Halifax Pilot. Fine weather 
with a fresh northern wind. Number of visitors 6710. 

Thursday, IQth. — This morning a writ was served against the 
ship for the infringement of an American patent, but upon inspec- 
tion it was found " no patent at all," consequently the writ was 
quashed. No visitors were allowed this day. From this morning's 
'' New York Herald " :— 

" The Great Easteei^-. 

'* PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE— FRESH INCREASE OF VISITORS TEMPORARY RESUS- 
CITATION OF BUSINESS ON THE WHARVES — THE LAST DAY OF HER VISIT — FOR 
ENGLAND, HO ! ETC. 

" There was almost a return of the old excitement yesterday on 
board the great mammoth ship, in consequence of the crowds that 
hastened to visit her ere she took her final departure from our 
shores. The steamers began to ply from the foot of Hammond 
street at ten o'clock to the vessel's station in the stream, and only 
ceased plying to and fro when there was no longer time left for 
even a cursory glance below to any whose curiosity was only to 
be appeased by treading her decks, if even but for a turn or two. 
The steamers kept up a constant communication between the 
vessel and shore, and on every trip they were crowded with visitors, 
who, having hitherto failed to visit the naval architectural wonder 
of the age, were at last determined that they would be able to 
answer affirmatively the inevitable question, ' Have you seen the 
Great Eastern ?' 

" Notwithstanding the great numbers who went on board 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 81 

during the day, and that at times there must have been at least a 
couple of thousand people brought together, there were but few 
to be encountered in any one place, so completely were they lost 
in the mazes of the between-decks, or engulphed in the cavernous 
depths below. Thus the freights of people brought over by every 
steamer seemed to add but little to the numbers that were already 
engaged in admiring the vast proportions and the extensive accom- 
modations of the ship. As this was the last occasion that is ever 
likely to offer for an inspection of the mammoth of the deep, it 
was observable that there were more than a usual number of 
visitors to the engine departments, and from the manner in which 
the machinery and its operations were referred to and discussed, 
and the close scrutiny they underwent, it was clear that there was 
a considerable number of scientific and mechanical visitors present. 
There was nothing transpiring on board to indicate in the slightest 
degree that the great ship was spending her last day amongst us — 
that on the morrow those now inert and silent masses of machinery 
would be put into noisy motion, and that through their agency 
the Great Eastern, which has been so long one of the sensations 
of New York life, would be propelled once more to her island 
home across the Atlantic. 

" It was supposed in the earlier days of the project, while yet 
the Leviathan was upon her stocks, and when, from many yards 
issued forth the incessant and deafening noise which proclaimed 
that crank and wheel and hammer aud many a foundry fire was at 
work in speeding on the ' triumph of the age,' that Yankee 
vanity would be awakened, and that Yankee ingenuity would be 
taxed to produce a rival to the creation of his cousin John Bull, 
But Jonathan was content to let the work go on, wisely foreseeing 
that it would end in producing an ocean Frankenstein, which 
would be to its projectors more trouble than profit. The history 
of the Great Eastern has proved the wisdom of our capitalists 
and ship builders ; and even now, when, at a fearful cost, human 
skill has acquired control over the great floating mass, arises the 
question, in the words of their own great writer, ' What will they 
do with it ?' This is a question which comes more properly under 
the consideration of the Directors of the Great Ship Company, 
than that of a reporter, and with them let it rest. 

" Yesterday the wharf at the foot of Hammond Street presented 
some evidences of the life and bustle which prevailed in all that 
neighbourhood during the palmier days of the ' wonder.' Such 
as the scene was yesterday, however, it would but convey a laiut 
idea of the scenes presented and enacted ere the trip to Cape May 
was entered on. i'rom the moment that the ' Herald ' announced 
all the facts connected with that ill-managed undertaking, there 



82 THE GEEAT EASTERNS LOG. 

was an immediate strike of tents and marquees, restaurants and 
confectionary saloons, segar-stands and fruit-stands, and a complete 
stampede of all those enterprising caterers to the public who paid 
anything for the privilege of doing business on the wharf. They 
all fled incontinently, knowing that it was in a great measure all 
up with the speculation. But yesterday, under the genial influence 
of a beautiful day succeeding a very miserable wintry one, and 
from the fact that this was the last day, and that a crowd of 
visitors would be sure to be there, the wharf was once more alive 
with itinerant dealers of all kinds, from the lozenge boy, with his 
shrill cry of ' two cents a paper,' to that great ' medicine man,' 
John Kemble, the original oil man, who collected an audience by 
the dulcet tones of an old banjo and his own voice, dreadfully 
cracked from his prose efforts, as he said himself. All was life 
and animation on the wharf; the boats went off loaded at every 
trip, and as they returned again fresh crowds awaited transport. 
The Sixth, Eighth and jSTinth avenue cars were filled with tlie 
crowds hurrying to the ship, and at last, when evening came, and the 
boat had taken off the last loungers, it was computed that between 
six and seven thousand persons had been on board during the day." 



The number of persons who have visited the ship during the whole 
time of her stay in New York, is 164,754; realising 83,296 dollars, 
or about £17,000. The greatest number on any one day, was on the 
27th July, when there were registered, 16,817 persons; the smallest 
number on the 14th August, the register showing only, 1627. 
About 2 P.M. our passengers came on board (numbering forty- 
six for Halifax, and fifty-six for England). Pinished coaling at 
3 P.M., having received 1600 tons. We are one and all exceed- 
ingly rejoiced at leaving New York, for we have but few pleasant 
recollections to embitter our parting, but " unpleasant " ones 
crowd thick and fast on our memories. To the few kind friends, 
I leave behind, (who have manfully stood by officers and ship, 
through good and evil repute,) I beg most cordially to render the 
heartfelt thanks of myself and shipmates, for their many acts of 
kindness to us, the officers of the much-abused G-reat Eastern ; 
but I take it to be the fashion of the people here, to abuse that 
they cannot imitate. At 4.80 p.m. anchor up, steamed easil}^ 
down the bay, commencing 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 83 



THE HOMEWARD VOYAGE. 

" The anchor's up, our sails unfurl' d, 
We're bound to plough the watery world ; 
Huzza ! we're Homeward Bound." 

The only demonstration made in our favour afloat was by one 
or two maii-steamers firing a gun or two, which we answered. On 
shore thousands of spectators lined the wharves, to witness the 
departure of the "largest ship in the world," three or four ferry 
boats crossing the bay managed to raise a cheer ; and one little 
yacht worked away most assiduously with a little pop-gun, till we 
were beyond hearing ; we gave him four guns in return. Deter- 
mined to behave with due politeness to the last, we eased steam 
off the lower battery, and saluted the American flag, with twenty- 
one guns, the " dipping " of the flag at the fort being the only 
return vouchsafed us, not one gun could they spare ; however, we 
have the less to thank them for. At 6.25 p.m. crossed the bar, 
for the last time, (Cunard's steamer Australasian being close 
behind us, bound for Liverpool direct) ; stopped engines, and dis- 
charged Mr. Murphy, the pilot, (the band playing " Should auld 
acquaintance be forgot ") ; at 6.40 set on full speed for Halifax. 
Night fine, with light airs and hazy ; at 9.30 passed Fire Island 
light. 

Friday, Vlth August. — Light northerly winds and fine weather. 
9.30 A.M. observed the light-ship on the Nantucket shoal. At 
7 P.M. stopped for a few minutes to sound in forty-eight fathoms ; 
dark sandy bottom. The ship's speed is about fifteen knots, or 
seventeen miles per hour. 

Saturday, ISth. — Light variable airs and fine weather ; passed 
several small coasting and fishing vessels. 10 a.m. observed the 
land of Nova Scotia, on port-bow. p.m.— Eunning along the 
land ; 2.30 observed Sambro Island right a-head ; 3.40 rounded 
Sambro Island and entered Halifax Bay. The land about here 
is very rocky and barren in appearance, but improves as we 
proceed toward the town. When within seven miles, several 
small steamers, crowded with people, came to meet us, welcoming 
us with hearty cheers. As we drew near the town, crowds of people 
could be seen swarming on the wharves, vessels, and house-tops ; 
colours were flying from ships, houses, and flag-staft's, and amidst 
the ringing of bells, firing of guns, and the deafening cheers of 
the assembled populace, the Grreat Eastern glided along toward 
her anchorage (passing within twelve feet of the vessels moored 
at the wharves), as completely under command as a ferry-boat. 
At 4.40 P.M. let go the anchor in fifteen fathoms, two royal salutes 



84 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

being fired on shore in honour of our arrivaL "We Lave accomplished 
the passage from New York, against a strong adverse current, in 
forty-six hours, being five-and-a-half less than the quickest on 
record. No sooner was our anchor at the bottom than Halifax 
was afloat, and the Great Eastern presented the appearance of a 
huge whale surrounded by a shoal of sprats ; every boat and 
every a, ology for one was brought into requisition, and " Ho ! 
for the big ship," was the cry. After receiving '"' pratique," 
visiters were admitted on board at the charge of two shillings 
and sixpence. This is a very picturesque town, built on the slope of 
a hill, which rises in its centre, crowned with fortifications com- 
manding the harbour, in which is a small island also well fortified. 
The houses are apparently well built, and streets regular, with a 
goodly sprinkle of churches. 

The engineer's crew were all this night employed in unreefing 
the " floats" in the paddle Avheels (before leaving Southampton 
these " floats" were reefed, or drawn up some five feet from the 
outer rings of the wheels, to lessen their immersion, and thus allow 
the wheels to revolve faster; they are now being "unreefed" or 
replaced in their original position). 

Sunday, August IQtli. — Weathercloudy with rain. 8 a.m. com- 
menced shortening in cable (the engineer's work being completed), 
and at 9 our huge anchor was once more at the " cathead," and 
the Great Eastern steaming slowly from the harbour. An immense 
concourse of people was assembled on the wharves, &c., to witness 
our departure for *' Old England" ; dipped our colours, and fired 
four guns as a good-bye. 10 a.m:. Stopped at the mouth of 
the bay and discharged pilot, and at 10.10 a.m. started on our 
voyage for Milford Haven, passing a large number of small fish- 
ing schooners. Eive passengers joined us at Halifax (among 
them the wizard Jacobs and his brother the Goblin Sprightly,) 
making a total of seventy-two. Light increasing breeze from 
the S.E. with dull cloudy weather, and very chilly, with occasional 
showers, continuing the same up to midnight. 

Monday, 20th. — Same weather. At noon we were in lat. 45° 57' N., 
long. 55° 45' W. ; distance run 318 knots = 371 statute miles. 
Steering as we now are, nearly a due east course, we make nearly 
half an hour's difierence of time each day, thus giving us but 23i 
hours for our day, and subtracting from the ship's run about seven 
miles. P.M. Moderate head winds with tolerably smooth water ; 
middle part, thick fog. Engines going half speed for six hours, 
stopping four times for soundings ofl" Cape Race. The weather 
towards midnight cleared up, with a light wind from the south- 
ward. 

Tuesday, 21sf. — Dul], cloudy weather, with light southerly wind. 



THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 85 

At noon we were in lat. 48° 00' IST., long. 49° 00' W. ; distance run 
306 knots = 356 statute miles. Mr. Jacobs, the " Wizard, Improv- 
visatore and Ventriloquist,'' (assisted by the " Goblin Sprightly,") 
has announced his intention to give a grand performance to-morrow 
evening at 8 p.m. in the first " after cargo space," where his 
" Theatre" is in course of erection. He intends (as he savs) to 
'• do the thing in_ style," as if on shore. Bills, in flaming characters, 
are posted in various parts of the ship, announcing that his arrival 
will take place in time for a performance as per hand-bill. 

GEEAT EASTEEN TEMPLE OF MAGIC. 



NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN, 
Latitude 50° SO' N. Londtude 38° 30' W. 



WEDNESDAY EVENING, AUGUST 22, 1860. 

Under the immediate and distinguished Patronage of Capt. John Vine Hall, 

the Officers, and Passengers, of 

THE GREAT EASTERN STEAM SHIP. 



The entire proceeds of the Entertainment heing for the Benefit of 
THE DREADNOUGHT HOSPITAL SHIP. 



PEOEESSOE JACOBS, 

The world-reno-wned Wizard, Ventriloquist, and Improvisatore, with his 

inimitable 

GOBLIN SPPJGHTLY, 

Having arrived at the above Latitude and Longitude have the honour to 

announce, for the first time in these regions, one of their 

EXTPtAORDINARY PERFORMANCES ! 

The Wonders they introduce are unequalled in ancient or modern necromancy. 

THE SALOON, 

In which this Grand Entertainment is to take place, -will be fitted up as a 

TEMPLE OF ENCHANTMENT. 

The Decorations in the style of Louis Quatorze. The Apparatus is of massive 

Silver, realising the idea of 

ALADDIN'S PALACE. 



By kind permission, the Band of the Great Eastern will attend. 

Commences at Eight o'clock. Admission, 4s. Back Seats, 2s. Crew, Is. 
Tickets to be obtained at the Purser's Office. No Money taken at the Doors. 

Lithographs of his Temple of Magic are also to be seen in 
the most conspicuous places. The proceeds of this " Entertain- 
ment" (to Mr. Jacob's credit, be it said,) are to be handed to 
Captain Hall, and by him to the Dreadnought Hospital Ship for 



86 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 

Seamen of all Nations. As " all the Nobility and G-entiy" in 
this " Great Eastern" city have promised him " their support and 
patronage," a "full house" is anticipated. This day has been dull 
and gloomy throughout, with but little wind, our noble ship making 
good progress through the water. Several whales came up this 
evening for a peep at us, as we rushed along on our way, no doubt 
wondering what huge monster it was thus cleaving its way through 
their domains. During the whole night the weather was very 
thick, with light, variable winds. Those mechanical contrivances of 
modern invention, very useful by the way, but most offensive to 
ears polite, ycleped steam whistles, were kept going with but little 
intermission, and many were the curses, both loud and deep, 
bestowed on them by would-be sleepers. 

Wednesday the '2.2nd. — About 4 a.m. the weather cleared np a 
little, and by noon a light breeze sprung up from the N. W., and our 
forward square sails were set. The ship's position is in lat. 50° 10' 
jST., long. 41° 44' W., distance run 320 knots = 363 statute miles. 

The bulwarks and quarter-deck bear placards in large coloured 
type announcing the arrival of Professor Jacobs, and his 
intended performance this evening. This afternoon we passed an 
empty barrel floating on the water. On being asked by one of the 
passengers what it was, I politely informed him that it was a 
buoy attached to the new Atlantic Telegraph Cable ! An 
inoffensive sun-fish, enjoying his afternoon's siesta near the surface 
of the water, was capsized in a most unceremonious manner by 
collision with the bow of the Great Eastern : if this unfortunate 
denizen of the deep had any bones in its anatomical formation, 
doubtless they were all broken. 

I do not pretend to any knowledge of the future movements 
of the great ship, but her present ones may be termed lively ; 
the whole day she has been rolling about twenty-five degrees 
each way, proving, beyond a doubt, that she can roll much 
the same as an ordinary vessel, in the event of encountering a 
heavy sea. There is just now but little wind, and no sea to 
ispeak of, although it is what ive call a cross one ; however, 
it is pretty clearly proved that the Great Eastern (great though 
she be) cannot bull}' the waves of the Atlantic into subjection ; 
she will have to do homage to them, the same as other vessels, by 
bowing and rolling, though perhaps in a less abject manner. 
The theatre erected for this evening's performance, presents a 
really creditable appearance. The space chosen is of some extent, 
as may be understood from the fact that it is capable of stowing 
over 1300 tons of cargo, its height about fourteen feet. It has 
been nicely carpeted, and the ship's sides hidden by flags 
arranged with a considerable display of artistic skill; some 



THE GREAT EASTEEN's LOG. 87 

jiandsome spare cliandeliers are suspended from the deck, in 
company with a goodly array of brightly -polished globe lamps, 
and a row of some fifty foot-lights, added to w^hich some forty wax 
candles are burning on the stage, causing quite an illumination. 
In fitting up their " Temple of Magic," the Brothers Jacobs have 
gone to considerable trouble, in fact, as much so as if about to 
perform at one of the first London houses. His valuable mas- 
sive silver service of " urns," " vases," "boxes," &c., his numerous 
and ingenious pieces of mechanism, " Liliput house," " the 
windmill," "blooming orange-tree," "inexhaustible bottle," &c., 
were all in their places ; these, with the handsome stage drapery, 
&c., giving it the appearance {vide handbill) of a "Temple of 
Enchantment." Grreat credit is due to the Brothers Jacobs for 
the kind feeling which has prompted them at the expense of time 
and labour, fifty well-packed boxes having to be unpacked, and 
of course restored, to give this entertainment for the benefit of 
a public charity. The following was to be seen in various parts 
of the ship prior to the performance. 

** NOTICE! 
" Omnibuses -u-ill run, every half- liour, from 'Fore' Street, via the 'Bridges,' by 
■wbicli Passengers can be conveyed to Professor Jacobs' wonderful ' Temple 
of Magic' 

"Fare, Qd. 
"By Order of the Honble, 

" 'Great Eastern' Omnibus Directors." 

The performance commenced punctually at the time specified, 
the " house " beiug crowded in every part. Mr. Jacobs expe- 
rienced great difficulty, from the rolling of the vessel, in keeping 
his apparatus in their places, many of the things fetching way 
and receiving considerable damage ; but in spite of all these 
drawbacks, the Wizard for two hours delighted his audience ; 
Groblin Sprightly keeping them in a constant state of merri- 
ment. The professor did not fail to give us a specimen of his 
wonderful powers as an improvvisatore. One of the subjects given 
him was the Grreat Eastern, and much amusement was afi'orded 
by the witty manner in which he handled it. The performance 
concluded at ten p.m., and the gratified audience departed on foot 
(no cabs being on the stand) for their homes in difl'erent parts of 
this vast city. The night was dark and cloudy, with rain. After 
midnight set the lower main-topsail to a strong S.AY. wind, with 
heavy rain. 

Thursday, 2Srd. — Same weather, with a high sea running. 
8 A.M. set the upper main-topsail, three trysails, and staysail ; the 
Great Eastern, now, for the first time, having all her square sails set. 



88 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 

Noon. — Presli S.W. winds, raining heavily, and very thick. 
Lat. 51° 00' N., long. 32° 45' W. Distance run, 340 knots = 396 
statute miles. Of the numerous changes of wind and weather 
we are subjected to at sea, none, for discomfort, equals the weather 
we now have. I dare say many of my readers are familiar with 
the sight of a comical looking covering for the head, made of 
painted canvas (usually worn by coal-heavers), and generally 
ycleped a Sou'-Wester ; so called because wet weather and S.W. 
winds are inseparable companions. The rain that generally 
accompanies this wind is not a sharp shower for an hour or so, 
and then giving you time to "blow," but a steady indefatigable 
fall, speedily finding out a sore place in a waterproof, and 
causing the unfortunate recipient of its bounty to feel, unlike the 
celebrated Mark Tapley, anything but " jolly under his diffi- 
culties." In addition to the discomfort, owing to the thick 
weather, which is another of the accompanying evils, there is the 
danger of collision, the worst, and by us, most dreaded evil of all. 
This wind has also brought a long, rolling sea with it; and the 
Great Eastern, after her yesterday's practice, has so far im- 
proved as to be now doing a most decided roll. Unsecured 
articles of furniture (that have stood in one position since leaving 
England) suddenly discover they have been wrongly placed, and 
the alacrity with which they place themselves anew, at some 
considerable distance, is rather amusing. Two of the saloon 
chandeliers (no doubt dissatisfied with their elevated position) 
sought the deck in unceremonious haste, and great was the fall 
thereof! Now and then, during a heavier roll than usual, a 
crash was heard, signalling the destruction of a few articles of 
crockery-ware, or a score or so of " dead marines " (empty bottles). 
Sundry other noises were at times heard proceeding from the 
bowels of the great ship, even the bulkheads (like those of 
ordinary vessels) condescended to creak ; all tending to prove that 
the Great Eastern can, and doubtless will, roll' when occasion 
off'ers, although due allowance must be made for the present 
empty state of her inside. A vocal and instrumental concert 
was held in the saloon this evening, and passed off" with great 
eclat. Up to midnight the weather continued much the same, the 
wind merely veering a point or two each way, the rain con- 
tinuing nearly without intermissic-n the whole time, afibrding a 
capital opportunity of testing the efficacy of the cold water cure. 

Fndai/,24:th.— Wind. hauled a-head,' and at 8 a.m. all square 
sails were furled. Still raining at intervals. At 10 15 a.m., 
owing to a slight derangement in some trivial portion of the 
machinery, the screw had to be stopped for near four hours. 
A screw steamer was seen on the starboard bow, but too far to 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 89 

tlie southward to make out what she was. At noon our position 
was in lat. 50° 58' N., long. 24° 25' W. Distance run, 320 
knots = 373 statute miles. Soon after two p.m. our screw was 
again set going: by this unavoidable delay we have lost about 
twenty-five miles. Eive trysails and a staysail are set to a mode- 
rate breeze from the northward. Weather still dull and cloudy, 
with occasional showers, and a cross sea running. A notice in 
the saloon informed all musically inclined persons, that another 
grand vocal and instrumental performance would be there 
lield at eight p.m., at which time the seats were well filled, and 
the harmony was continued till eleven p.m., with the usual 
announcement of " out lights" as Qj Jljiale. (I Avould mention 
that Mr. Jacobs entertained the company by exhibiting his 
wonderful powers as a ventriloquist.) The night was fine, with 
but little wind. 

Saturday, 25th. — At 3.30 a.m. observed the screw-steamer 
Australasian on the port-bow (this is the steamer that I have 
mentioned as leaving New York at the same time as ourselves, 
bound home direct) ; so that taking into consideration our stay of 
eighteen hours in Halifax, and the detour we were compelled 
to make to reach that port, we have beaten her thus far twenty- 
four hours. Fine weather, with a light ]N".W. wind ; square sails 
set forward, and others set and taken in as required. 

Noon. — At dusk the Australasian's smoke was just visible on 
the port quarter ; passed a barque beating to the wind, showing 
1st distinguishing pendant, 183. 

A lottery was formed of thirty-six members at IO5. each, to be 
won by the party holding the ticket with the time of the pilot's 
coming on board, marked on it. 

The music and singing this evening was really good, and duly 
appreciated by the public. 

" The moon on the ocean was dimm'd by a ripple 
Affording a chequered light ; 
The gay jolly tars passed the word for the tipple 
And the toast, for 'twas 'Saturday night.' " 

A private "Soiree musicale " was held in one of the officers' 
cabins this evening. AYith us 'tis 

'• Always the practice, a cause of delight, 
Drinking 'sweethearts and wives' on a Saturday night." 

A convivial party was assembled ; the song and joke went round, 
not forgetting the toast, 

" The wind that blows, 
The ship that goes, 
And the lass that loves a sailor." 



90 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 

A pleasant evening was spent by those who were now, perhaps, 
meeting for the last time, and were therefore determined it should 
he a merry one. 

The night was fine, with light winds, fore-topsails and foresail 
set, although, for all their use, they might be furled. A fresh 
gale is required to be of any service to the Great Eastern when 
*' running," 

Sunday 2Qth, at 3.30 a.m. (daybrealO- The lofty hills, and 
rock-bound coast of Ireland, became clearly visible, at a distance 
of some twelve miles. 

This day we ran 346 knots = 414 statute miles. At 4 p.m. we 
were abreast the " Smalls," and at 4.55 stopped off the entrance 
to Milford Haven, and received on board a pilot. This virtually 
concludes our voyage, as from this up to our anchorage Ave several 
times stopped to receive on board Custom House Officials, Govern- 
ment Pilot, &c. The voyage from Halifax has been performed in 
seven days one hour (mean time). 

Numlier of miles run by observation from New York to Milford 

Haven, exclusive of distance in and out of port to Pilot Stations 2980 

Ditto ditto from Halifax 2-357 

Time between New York and Milford 

Haven, less 4h. 56m. difference of 

time 2121i. 54m., or 13 '91 knots per hour. 

Time between Halifax and Milford 

Haven, less Sh. 15m. difference of 

time 168h. 45m., or 13-95 knots per hour. 

About 16 statute miles per hour. 

Steaming up to our anchorage we passed through the Channel 
Fleet, composed of eleven noble line of battle ships, " Old 
England's Wooden Walls ;" from their trucks down to the decks, 
yards, masts, and bulwarks were crowded with "jolly tars." Each 
ship as we passed (her band playing " God save the Queen," or 
" Eule Britannia,") dipped the ensign and gave us three hearty 
cheers; such cheers as only British tars can give, thrilling to 
our hearts, and causing us to feel proud indeed of our country. 

The welcome accorded to us by the British Eleet was indeed a 
hearty and a flattering one, one that 'twill be long 'ere we forget. 

At 6.30 P.M. off Pembroke Dockyard. 

" ' Stand clear the cable,' was the cry ; 
' The anchor's gone, we safely ride.' " 

The Great Eastern has thus satisfactorily completed her first 
transatlantic voyage. Of her performances during that voyage, 
those who have read the foregoing pages may judge for themselves, 
whether good or bad; they will doubtless coincide with their 



THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 91 

humble servant in considering tliem as, in every way, most satis- 
factory, and that 

•' She is a vessel stout and brave, 
As ever stemm'd the ocean wave." 

Hflvinf^ (speaking in a literary sense) brought the " Great 
Eastern" in safety to her Haven, my task is finished, and 
wishing her a long and successful maritime career employed 
in the commerce and in the service of "Old England" (no 
longer as a "travelling show"), I bid adieu to the noblest 
structure ever raised by the hands of Englishmen. 



CONCLUSIOiS". 



Deaij Eeadee, — Should fate, pleasure, or business, be the 
cause of your leaving your own fireside to visit some distant 
land, cast your eye over the columns of the newspapers, and if 
the " Great Eastern " be there advertised to sail for that port 
whither you are bound, take my kindly-meant advice, engage a. 
passage in that noble vessel, and rest assured a comfortable 
and (as far as human foresight can provide against accidents) a 
safe voyage awaits you. Should you do so, we may, perchance, meet 
in p7'oprid perso?td. If the foregoing pages have been the means 
of whiling away an hour or two that hung heavily on your hand, 
I am well repaid for my trouble, and bid you a kindly adieu. 

THE "AUTHOE." 



THE END. 



BRADBURY AND EVA^S, PRINTERS, WHITEFRrARS. 



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